\begin{itemize}
\item Case (top plate, switch plate, spacer, bottom plate)
-\item Sandpaper
-\item Finishing wax (mixture of beeswax and mineral oil)
\item Diodes (42)
-\item Key switches (37 tactile or clicky, 5 red)
+\item Key switches (42 tactile or clicky, 5 red)
\item A-Star Micro controller
\item Printed circuit board (PCB)
\item Machine screws and nuts (8 each, 16mm M3 size)
You'll also need to have these on hand:
\begin{itemize}
-\item Brush for applying finishing wax (a toothbrush will do)
-\item Soldering iron and solder (thin solder and an iron with a sharp tip)
+\item Sandpaper (200 grit and 1000 grit waterproof)
+\item Can of spray lacquer (clear glossy recommended)
+\item Newspaper or other material to spray on
+\item Soldering iron and solder (thin solder and an iron with a sharp
+ tip recommended)
\item Wire cutters
-\item Rags or paper towels to lay the parts down on during construction
\end{itemize}
\vspace{1em}
guide.\footnote{http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf}
The photos in this guide depict Matias switches, (with rectangular
switch stems) but you can use Cherry MX switches (with stems shaped
-like a +) as well. The assembly steps are the same in either case.
+like a +) as well. The assembly steps are mostly the same in either case.
\section{Sanding}
-Start by sanding down both sides of each piece. You may want to
-hold two pieces together while sanding for strength or placing it on a
-flat surface you don't mind scruffing up; too much pressure on a
-single plate could damage it.
+Start by sanding down both sides of each piece with your lowest-grit
+sandpaper. You may want to hold two pieces together while sanding for
+strength or placing it on a flat surface you don't mind scruffing up;
+too much pressure on a single plate could damage it.
\vspace{1em}
\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
wood dust off the pieces before you go on. A clean tack cloth or other
fine cloth works well.
-\section{Finishing}
-
-You have two options when it comes to finishing. The easiest way is to
-proceed with the wax/oil mixture included in the kit, but you can also
-finish it with a spray lacquer. This requires buying more supplies and
-takes longer, but it results in a sturdier, shinier
-finish.\footnote{http://atreus.technomancy.us/lacquer.gif} The steps
-for the lacquered finish are described in a separate
-document,\footnote{http://atreus.technomancy.us/lacquer.pdf} and the
-rest of this section describes the quicker finishing method.
-
\vspace{1em}
Some people don't like the look of the exposed edges charred from the
laser cutter. You can choose to sand off the charring, or alternately
-cover it all with black ink from a sharpie for a more consistent look.
+cover it all with black ink from a sharpie marker for a more
+consistent look, or leave it alone.
-\vspace{1em}
+\section{Finishing}
-Open up the wax/oil mixture. Apply some to the brush and start
-spreading it over one side of each case piece. The color of the wood
-will darken as it absorbs the oil. Try to ensure it's spread
-evenly. Be more generous with the oil on the outer exposed
-surfaces. Once you've spread it with the brush, you can use your
-fingers to work the wax into the wood more deeply. If you need to
-reapply the finishing in the future, butcher block conditioner is
-readily available in stores and will do the job nicely.
+Once the case is sanded down all over with coarse sandpaper, find a
+good place to spray the lacquer. It should be outdoors or in a
+well-ventilated garage if spraying outdoors is not feasible. Lay down
+the newspaper with the pieces of the case on top of it. Spray your
+first coat of lacquer to the face-up side of each piece. Try to use a
+steady hand and keep the path of the spray overlapping itself just a
+small amount as you go to and fro to minimize runs but still cover all
+the area. The evenness of the spray matters less on the internal
+surfaces of the case, so it's a good time to practice and get the hang
+of it.
-\vspace{1em}
-\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
-\includegraphics[width=0.7\linewidth]{oiled.jpg}}
\vspace{1em}
-As your brush goes over the edges of the laser-cut wood, it will get
-dirty from charred wood particles. After you've finished oiling one
-side of each piece, it's best to wash out the brush. Be sure it's
-fully dry before going on.
+Check the lacquer directions to see how long your particular product
+needs to dry; this can vary from half an hour to many hours. Once your
+first coat is dry, flip each piece over and spray the other
+side. Repeat for a second coat. After the second coat, you can ignore
+all surfaces except for the top of the top plate and the bottom of the
+bottom plate since only these are exposed to the outside. At this
+point you can take in the switch plate and continue the rest of the
+keyboard construction while you wait for remaining coats to dry.
-\section{Drying}
+\vspace{1em}
-Once one side of each piece is finished, you'll need to lay them out
-for a half hour or so to let them dry. Once one side is dry, repeat
-the process on the other side. After you've finished the construction
-you can come back and add another few coats to the outermost surfaces
-for a smoother texture. Once it's dried for a while, wipe the excess
-off. While you're waiting, you can start soldering the diodes and
-controller onto the circuit board, but don't solder any switches in
-before the switch plate is ready or you'll just need to remove them
-later.
+The outer surfaces should have between eight to ten coats applied
+total. As you get to the later coats, the end result will be smoother
+if you can keep them thinner. After your second-to-last coat dries,
+take your fine sandpaper and soak it in water, then sand over the top and
+bottom surfaces lightly. Add a final coat and buff it with a fine
+cloth. If you make any mistakes or are unhappy with the smoothness of
+the finish, let it dry and add another layer of lacquer, then try
+lightly sanding it again. If you have some wood finishing oil, you can
+apply it with your fingers.
\section{Diodes}
Coat the tip of the hot iron thinly with some solder before you
start. The key is to use the iron to heat both parts of the joint for
a second or two, then bring in a dab of the solder and let it melt and
-stick to the component and the circuit board pad.
+stick to the lead and the circuit board pad.
\vspace{1em}
pointing in the direction of the arrow on the printed side of the
board. Once all five are in, pinch the legs of the diodes together to
keep them from falling out, then flip the board over and solder them
-in place. Make sure they don't protrude off the board more than necessary.
+in place. Make sure they don't protrude up more than necessary.
\vspace{1em}
\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
- \includegraphics[width=0.7\linewidth]{diodes.jpg}}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.65\linewidth]{diodes.jpg}}
\vspace{1em}
In the photo the diodes are inserted from the back of the circuit
First take the PCB with the labeled side down and fill the four corner
holes in the center ``A-STAR'' section with solder. Insert diode legs
into these holes while melting the solder. Then repeat the process for
-the other holes on the left, keeping them pointing as straight as possible.
+the other holes on the left, keeping them pointing as straight as
+possible. Leave the right side alone for now.
\vspace{1em}
\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
- \includegraphics[width=0.8\linewidth]{many-pins.jpg}}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.65\linewidth]{many-pins.jpg}}
\vspace{1em}
Fit the controller over the pins you've attached so far. Solder the
four corner pins already connected to the PCB into the corners of the
-controller. (The bottom left corner is unused; the pin above is used
+controller. (The bottom left corner is unused; the pin above it is used
instead.) Try to ensure the controller is as close to the PCB as
possible and not at an angle. Then solder the other left-side diode
legs into the controller as well. Trim them all with your wire
holes. Flip the board over and solder the protruding diode legs to the
PCB, then trim them down and flip the board back over. Straighten the
diode legs, then solder and trim them. Repeat for the remaining
-unpopulated holes. From the PCB side, all the holes will be used, but
+right-side holes. From the PCB side, all the holes will be used, but
from the controller side, there will be some unused.
\vspace{1em}
Plug in the USB micro cable into the controller, and plug the other
side into your computer. Get a copy of the
-firmware \footnote{Available at https://atreus.technomancy.us/tmk} and
-its dependencies, \texttt{avrdude} and \texttt{gcc-avr}, linked in the
-firmware readme. The first time you upload the firmware, you will have
-to use the hardware reset to enter the bootloader: take a diode leg or
-wire and touch one end to the reset pin and one end to the ground
-pin. (These are circled in the photo.) Touch them together twice in
-under a second and the LED underneath will begin pulsing in a
-different pattern from the original blinking. This indicates it has
-entered the bootloader for 8 seconds.
+firmware \texttt{.hex} file \footnote{Available at
+ https://atreus.technomancy.us/tmk} and \texttt{avrdude}. The
+first time you upload the firmware, you will have to use the hardware
+reset to enter the bootloader: take a diode leg or wire and touch one
+end to the reset pin and one end to the ground pin. (These are circled
+in the photo.) Touch them together twice in under a second and the
+LED underneath will begin pulsing in a different pattern from the
+original blinking. This indicates it has entered bootloader mode for 8
+seconds.
\vspace{1em}
-While in the bootloader, type \texttt{make upload KEYMAP=qwerty
- USB=[...]} from the firmware directory\footnote{See the firmware
- readme for instructions about determining the USB argument and
- customizing the layout.}. The firmware should be uploaded, and it
-will start functioning as a keyboard once switches are connected. Next
-time you upload, you can use the reset key instead of touching the
-pins together.
-
-\vspace{1em}
-
-If you only want to use the default layout and don't want to bother
-with installing everything, the firmware readme also describes simpler
-steps for installing a pre-compiled firmware.
+While it's in the bootloader mode, type \texttt{avrdude -p atmega32u4
+ -c avr109 -U flash:w:atreus.hex -P /path/to/usb} from the directory
+containing the firmware\footnote{See the firmware readme for
+ instructions about determining the USB argument and customizing the
+ layout.}. The firmware should be uploaded, and it will start
+functioning as a keyboard once switches are connected. Next time you
+upload, you can use the reset key instead of touching the pins
+together.
\section{Switches}
the switch plate face-down on the table with the pins sticking
up.
-\vspace{1em}
-
Carefully fit the circuit board over the protruding pins with the
labeled side down. Solder those corners to hold the circuit board and
the switch plate together. The switches should be flush with the
\vspace{1em}
\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
- \includegraphics[width=0.8\linewidth]{center-switches.jpg}}
-\vspace{1em}
-
+ \includegraphics[width=0.7\linewidth]{center-switches.jpg}}
\vspace{1em}
%% The main (non-rotated) switches on Matias kits have their pins
\vspace{1em}
-If there is room between the head of the USB cable and the place where
-the cable leaves the case, consider adding strain relief by wrapping
-the cable with electrical tape or a zip tie at the point just below
-where it leaves the case. This will make it so pulling on the cable
-does not dislodge it from the controller.
+You may want to add strain relief by wrapping the USB cable with
+electrical tape or a zip tie at the point just below where it leaves
+the case. This will make it so pulling on the cable does not dislodge
+it from the controller.
\vspace{1em}
and screwing it together with the nuts facing up. If the controller
was not attached close enough to the circuit board, it may be
necessary to sand down the USB connector in order to close the
-case. Before you place the rubber feet on the bottom plate near the
-corners, consider giving the outer case another coat or two of wax and
-allowing it to dry. If the rubber feet don't stay on with the provided
-adhesive, white glue may be needed to secure them.
+case. If the rubber feet don't stay on with the provided adhesive,
+white glue may be needed to secure them.
\vspace{1em}
projects / atreides.git / commitdiff