*** Keycaps
Caps for Matias switches are included in the official kits. Sculpted
-caps are also available [[http://matias.ca/order/#keycaps][from
-Matias]] or by harvesting from old Alps keyboards. It's recommended
-that you use unlabeled keys, because due to the different sizes and
-orientations of certain keys (backspace, shift, enter, etc) the labels
-will be incorrect if present.
+caps are also available [[http://matias.ca/order/#keycaps][from Matias]] or by harvesting from old Alps
+keyboards. It's recommended that you use unlabeled keys, because due
+to the different sizes and orientations of certain keys (backspace,
+shift, enter, etc) many of the labels will be incorrect if present.
Cherry switches have more options. This
-[[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/products/full-keysets/dsa-blank-sets-1][DSA-shaped
-base set]] (spherical indentations on the key, same profile for each
+[[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/products/full-keysets/dsa-blank-sets-1][DSA-shaped base set]] (spherical indentations on the key, same profile for each
row) from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a few extras we won't
use. There are two "deep dish" keys in that set which you can place
under your index fingers on the home row to help guide your hands to
also need eight M3 machine screws with nuts; the length of the screws
depends on the thickness of the acrylic you use. You can add rubber
feet to the bottom to prevent the board from sliding around when
-placed on a desk. You'll also need sandpaper and finishing oil for the
-wooden cases unless you have bought a kit.
+placed on a desk. You'll also need sandpaper and lacquer for the
+wooden case.
If you are building a hand-wired board you will also need a glue gun,
hookup wire, and wire strippers.
\section{Finishing}
-%% TODO: mention polyurethane
-
You have two options when it comes to finishing. The easiest way is to
-proceed with the wax/oil mixture included in the kit. The other option
-is to apply several layers of lacquer and wet sand it down in
-between coats. This requires buying more supplies and takes significantly
-longer, but it results in a sturdier, shinier
+proceed with the wax/oil mixture included in the kit, but you can also
+finish it with a spray lacquer. This requires buying more supplies and
+takes longer, but it results in a sturdier, shinier
finish.\footnote{http://atreus.technomancy.us/lacquer.gif} The steps
for the lacquered finish are described in a separate
document,\footnote{http://atreus.technomancy.us/lacquer.pdf} and the
\section{Drying}
Once one side of each piece is finished, you'll need to lay them out
-for a half hour or so to let them dry. (Longer if using lacquer.) Once
-one side is dry, repeat the process on the other side. After you've
-finished the construction you can come back and add another few coats
-to the outermost surfaces for a smoother texture. Once it's dried for
-a while, wipe the excess off. While you're waiting, you can start
-soldering the diodes and controller onto the circuit board, but don't
-solder any switches in before the switch plate is ready or you'll just
-need to remove them later.
+for a half hour or so to let them dry. Once one side is dry, repeat
+the process on the other side. After you've finished the construction
+you can come back and add another few coats to the outermost surfaces
+for a smoother texture. Once it's dried for a while, wipe the excess
+off. While you're waiting, you can start soldering the diodes and
+controller onto the circuit board, but don't solder any switches in
+before the switch plate is ready or you'll just need to remove them
+later.
\section{Diodes}
--- /dev/null
+\documentclass{article}
+\title{Atreus Keyboard Assembly: Lacquered Case}
+\date{ }
+\usepackage[right=2.5cm, left=2.5cm, top=1cm, bottom=1cm]{geometry}
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{parskip}
+\pagenumbering{gobble}
+\begin{document}
+\maketitle
+\vspace{-3em}
+
+The wooden Atreus Keyboard case can be made with an oil/wax finish,
+but if you have the patience to apply several coats of lacquer finish
+you can get a very pleasing shiny look with a smoother texture.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
+\includegraphics[width=0.7\linewidth]{lacquer.jpg}}
+\vspace{1em}
+
+You'll need a few items in addition to what's in the kit:
+
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Fine waterproof sandpaper (between 1000 and 2000 grit)
+\item Can of spray lacquer (clear glossy recommended)
+\item Newspaper or other material to spray on
+\end{itemize}
+
+Start by sanding everything with the 100-grit paper included in the
+kit. Pay special attention to remove the scorch marks from the laser
+cutting. Some people don't like the look of the exposed edges charred
+from the laser cutter. You can choose to sand off the charring to
+expose the layered ply or alternately cover it all with black ink from
+a sharpie for a more consistent look if you prefer.
+
+Once the case is sanded down all over with coarse sandpaper, find a
+good place to spray the lacquer. It should be outdoors, or in a
+well-ventilated garage if spraying outdoors is not feasible. Lay down
+the newspaper with the pieces of the case on top of it. Spray your
+first coat of lacquer to the face-up side of each piece. Try to use a
+steady hand and keep the path of the spray overlapping itself just a
+small amount as you go to and fro to minimize runs but still cover all
+the area. The evenness of the spray matters less on the internal
+surfaces of the case, so it's a good time to practice and get the hang
+of it.
+
+Check the lacquer directions to see how long your particular product
+needs to dry; this can vary from half an hour to nearly a day. Once
+your first coat is dry, flip each piece over and spray the other
+side. Repeat for a second coat.
+
+After the second coat, you can ignore all surfaces except for the top
+of the top plate and the bottom of the bottom plate since only these
+are exposed to the outside. At this point you can take in the switch
+plate and continue the rest of the keyboard construction while you
+wait for remaining coats to dry.
+
+The outer surfaces should have between eight to ten coats applied total. As
+you get to the later coats, the end result will be smoother if you can
+keep them thinner. After your last coat dries, take your fine
+sandpaper and soak it, then sand over the top and bottom surfaces
+lightly. If you make any mistakes or are unhappy with the smoothness
+of the finish, let it dry and add another layer of lacquer, then try
+sanding it again.
+
+As a final step after the case has dried from the wet sanding, take
+the wax/oil mixture from the kit and spread some over the outer two
+surfaces with your fingers, rubbing it into the finish as a
+polish. Let the oil soak into the finish for a few hours. The end
+result should look a bit like the wood of a guitar.
+
+Congratulations; you should have a beautifully-finished case. Enjoy!
+
+\end{document}
projects / atreides.git / commitdiff
