From: Armaan Bhojwani Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2021 21:17:56 +0000 (-0500) Subject: Remove assembly directory X-Git-Url: https://git.armaanb.net/?p=atreides.git;a=commitdiff_plain;h=26c9589c46fabe27796c7a82ef25655910ce3e6f Remove assembly directory --- diff --git a/assembly/assembly.tex b/assembly/assembly.tex deleted file mode 100644 index 3158d03..0000000 --- a/assembly/assembly.tex +++ /dev/null @@ -1,321 +0,0 @@ -\documentclass[landscape,twocolumn]{article} -\title{Atreus Keyboard Assembly} -\date{ } -\usepackage{pdflscape} -\usepackage{graphicx} -\usepackage[landscape,twocolumn]{geometry} -\usepackage{wrapfig} -\newgeometry{margin=2cm} -\begin{document} -\setlength{\columnsep}{1.4cm} -\setlength{\parindent}{0cm} -\maketitle -\section{Prerequisites} - -Before starting, make sure your kit has all its parts: - -\begin{itemize} -\item Case: top plate, switch plate, spacer pieces, bottom plate -\item Sandpaper: 100-220 grit and 1000-2000 grit waterproof -\item Key switches: 42 tactile or clicky, 5 red optional -\item Printed circuit board (PCB) -\item A-Star Micro controller\footnote{The controller and diodes will be - attached to the PCB already in presoldered boards.} -\item Diodes\textsuperscript{1}: 42 -\item USB micro cable -\item Key caps: 40 normal, 2 long -\item Screws and nuts: 8 each, 16mm M3 size -\item Rubber feet -\end{itemize} - -You'll also need to have these on hand: - -\begin{itemize} -\item Can of spray lacquer, shellac, or polyurethane (for wood cases) -\item Newspaper or other material to spray on (for wood cases) -\item Soldering iron and solder (lead-free not recommended) -\item Wire cutters (not needed for presoldered kits) -\item Eye protection for soldering -\end{itemize} - -\vspace{1em} - -The latest version of this document can always be found -online.\footnote{https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf} If you are -hand-wiring a board without a PCB, see the older assembly -guide.\footnote{https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf} -The photos in this guide depict Matias switches (with rectangular -switch stems), but you can use Cherry MX switches (with stems shaped -like a +) as well. - -\section{Sanding} - -Acrylic cases can skip down to the ``Diodes'' step below. Otherwise -start by sanding with your rougher sandpaper. The top side of the top -plate and the bottom side of the bottom plate are the only surfaces -that are exposed to the touch once the keyboard is fully assembled, so -these are the ones you'll need to sand. - -\vspace{1em} -\begin{center} - \includegraphics[width=0.7\columnwidth]{sanding.jpg} -\end{center} -\vspace{1em} - -You may want to hold two pieces together while sanding for strength or -placing it on a flat surface you don't mind scruffing up; too much -pressure on a single plate could damage it. Be sure to get all the -wood dust off the pieces before you go on. A clean tack cloth or other -fine cloth works well. - -\vspace{1em} - -Some people don't like the look of the exposed edges charred black -from the laser cutter. You can choose to sand off the charring, or -alternately cover it all with black ink from a sharpie marker for a -more consistent look, or just leave it alone. - -\section{Wood Finishing} - -Once the case is sanded down all over with coarse sandpaper, find a -good place to spray the lacquer or polyurethane; either outdoors or in -a well-ventilated garage. Lay down the newspaper with the pieces of -the case on top of it. Spray your first coat of lacquer to the face-up -side of each piece. As you spray to and fro, overlapping the path of -the spray slightly will minimize running. The evenness of the spray -matters less on the internal surfaces of the case, so that's a good -place to practice and get the hang of it. - -\vspace{1em} - -Check the lacquer directions to see how long your particular product -needs to dry; this can vary from half an hour to many hours. Once your -first coat is dry, flip each piece over and spray the other -side. Repeat for a second coat. After the second coat, you can ignore -all surfaces except for the top of the top plate and the bottom of the -bottom plate since only these are exposed to the outside. At this -point you can take in the switch plate and continue the rest of the -keyboard construction in between applying the further coats. - -\vspace{1em} - -The outer surfaces should have between five to eight coats applied -total. As you get to the later coats, the end result will be smoother -if you can keep them thinner. After your second-to-last coat dries, -take your fine sandpaper and soak it in water, then sand over the top -and bottom surfaces lightly. Add a final coat and buff it with a fine -cloth. If you make any mistakes or are unhappy with the smoothness of -the finish, let it dry and add another layer until you are satisfied. - -\section{Diodes} - -If you've got a presoldered board, you can skip ahead to the -``Switches'' section. - -\vspace {1em} - -If you've never soldered before, there are plenty of good -introductions online.\footnote{This one from Adafruit is great: - https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/tools} -Coat the tip of the hot iron thinly with some solder before you -start. The key is to use the iron to heat both the hole and the lead -sticking through it for a second or two, then bring in a dab of the -solder. The solder should melt immediately if the joint is hot enough. - -\vspace{1em} - -Take five diodes at a time and bend them into a U shape. Place them -into the diode holes next to each switch slot on the unlabeled side of -the board. Each diode has a black band on it; the band should be -pointing in the direction of the arrow on the printed side of -the board. Once all five are in, pinch the legs of the diodes together -to keep them from falling out, then flip the board over and solder -them in place. Make sure they don't protrude up more than necessary. - -\vspace{1em} -\includegraphics[width=\columnwidth]{diodes.jpg} -\vspace{1em} - -Once each set of diodes is soldered, trim the diode legs with wire -cutters. Pinch the diode leg as you trim it to keep it from flying -across the room or into an eye. \textbf{Keep the diode legs}; they will be -needed in the next step. Repeat until each diode position is -filled. Note that each row on the bottom needs six diodes instead of five. - -\section{Controller} - -Once the diodes are in place, you can begin attaching the controller. -If the controller came in a pink bag with its own header pins, you may -be tempted to use them to connect the controller to the circuit -board. Don't do this--they are too big and will prevent the case from -closing when you're done. We will be using the diode legs we just -trimmed instead. - -\vspace{1em} - -First take the PCB with the labeled side down and fill the four corner -holes in the center ``A-STAR'' section with solder. Insert diode legs -into these holes while melting the solder. Then repeat the process for -the other holes on the left, keeping them pointing as straight as -possible. Leave the rest of the right side alone for now. - -\vspace{1em} -\begin{center}\includegraphics[width=0.8\columnwidth]{many-pins.jpg}\end{center} -\vspace{1em} - -Fit the controller over the legs you've attached so far. You can trim -the legs some if it helps get the controller on, but don't cut them to -less than a quarter of the original length. Solder the four corner -pins already connected to the PCB into the corners of the -controller. (The bottom left corner pin of the controller is unused; -the pin above it is used instead.) Try to ensure the controller is as -close to the PCB as possible and not at an angle. Then solder the -other left-side diode legs into the controller as well. Trim them all -with your wire cutters when they are secure. - -\vspace{1em} - -Eight right-side holes remain. For these, bend four diode legs at a -time into an L shape, and insert them into four of the remaining -holes. Flip the board over and solder the protruding diode legs to the -PCB, then trim them down and flip the board back over. Straighten the -diode legs, then solder and trim them. Repeat for the remaining -right-side holes. From the PCB side, all the holes will be used, but -from the controller side, there will be some unused. - -\vspace{1em} -\begin{center} - \includegraphics[width=0.8\columnwidth]{bent-legs.jpg} -\end{center} -\vspace{1em} - -Before you go on, take the time to double-check the solder joints on -the controller. The solder should fill the hole completely without -spilling over to adjacent holes. Also check that all the diodes are -facing the correct direction with the black band pointing to the -bottom of the board. - -\section{Firmware} - -Installing the firmware now isn't strictly necessary, but it will -allow you to spot mistakes before the board is finished. - -\vspace{1em} - -Plug in the USB micro cable into the controller, and plug the other -side into your computer. Get a copy of the -firmware \texttt{.hex} file \footnote{Available at - https://atreus.technomancy.us/download} and \texttt{avrdude}. The -first time you upload the firmware, you will have to use the hardware -reset to enter the bootloader: take a diode leg or wire and touch one -end to the reset pin and one end to the ground pin. (These are circled -in the photo.) Touch them together twice in under a second and the -LED underneath will begin pulsing in a smoother pattern from the -original blinking. This indicates it has entered bootloader mode for 8 -seconds. - -\vspace{1em} - -While it's in the bootloader mode, run \texttt{avrdude -p atmega32u4 - -c avr109 -U flash:w:atreus.hex -P /path/to/usb} from the directory -containing the firmware\footnote{See - https://atreus.technomancy.us/flash for how to determine the USB - argument and customizing the layout.}. The firmware should be -uploaded, and it will start functioning as a keyboard once switches -are connected. Next time you upload, you can use the reset key instead -of touching the pins together. - -\section{Switches} - -Next take four switches and place each switch in a corner of the -switch plate. (That's the case layer with all the holes in it.) The -switches should be oriented so that the side with pins is to the -``north'' of the board so they will fit into the holes in the circuit -board. Put the switch plate face-down on the table with the pins -sticking up. - -\vspace{1em} - -Carefully fit the circuit board over the protruding pins with the -labeled side down. Solder those corners to hold the circuit board and -the switch plate together. The switches should be flush with the -PCB. Take care that the switch pins are straight when you insert them; -pushing in a switch with a pin that's a bit bent will bend it flat and -prevent it from poking through the circuit board. - -\vspace{1em} -\begin{center} - \includegraphics[width=0.9\columnwidth]{some-switches.jpg} -\end{center} -\vspace{1em} - -Next fill in the rest of the bottom row (SW1:3 through SW10:3) and the -leftmost column (SW0:1 and SW0:2). If your kit has red linear switches -which do not have any tactile bump, you can choose to use these for -the modifier keys (shift, ctrl, alt, etc) or to leave the modifiers -using the same switches as the rest of the board.\footnote{Since - modifier keys are held down, they do not benefit from tactility like - normal keys do, so some people find they prefer linear keys there, - but this is a matter of personal taste.} The modifiers on the bottom -row are SW2:3, SW3:3, and SW8:3 in the default layout. - -\vspace{1em} - -Solder the left and right pins of each of the switches you've placed -so far, and then plug it in to a computer to test them to ensure that -each row and column is connected back up to the controller -correctly. Once you've confirmed this, solder the rest of the -switches. - -\section{Wrapping Up} - -If there's a misbehaving switch, it's often caused by a cold -joint. Reflow the solder on both contacts of the switch and the -diode. If an entire row or column is affected, it's probably the -connection to the controller. You can follow the traces for the rows -back to the middle, but the columns on the back of the board are -obscured when the keyboard is assembled; you can see them in this PCB -diagram\footnote{https://atreus.technomancy.us/pcb}. Re-melting the -controller's solder joint for the affected row or column is usually -enough to get it working. If you still can't -get it working, email me: \texttt{phil@hagelb.org}. - -\vspace{1em} - -You may want to add strain relief by wrapping the USB cable with -electrical tape at the point just below where it leaves the case. This -will make it so pulling on the cable does not dislodge it from the -controller. - -\vspace{1em} - -After the switches are all in and tested, place the keycaps. They can -take a fair bit of pressure to go on, so support the underside of the -board while pushing them on. Once the caps are on, they are very -difficult to remove again; don't try to pull them off without -desoldering\footnote{Desoldering a single switch can be done with just - an iron, but for doing more you may want a pump or wick. See - https://blog.adafruit.com/2015/11/25/collins-lab-desoldering/} the -switch first. - -\vspace{1em} - -All that's left is to do is close the case by placing the spacer -pieces and bottom plate on the keyboard while upside down, then -putting some screws in. Flip it over and place the top plate on, then -attach the nuts. If the controller was not attached close enough to -the circuit board, it may be necessary to sand down the USB connector -to reduce its height in order to close the case. If the rubber feet -don't stay on with the provided adhesive, white glue may be needed to -secure them. If you have some wood finishing oil or beeswax, you can -apply it with your fingers after the feet go on for a shinier surface. - -\vspace{1em} - -Congratulations! Enjoy your new keyboard. It will take a -considerable adjustment period to get used to it, but it should result -in much more comfortable and effective typing. Also remember that -you're encouraged to customize the layout to make it truly your -own. 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