From 6faf355110764546e31c7581ea6411c850e2cc76 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Phil Hagelberg Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 15:48:18 -0800 Subject: [PATCH] Mention Arduino Micro as an option. --- README.org | 34 +++++++++++++++------------------- 1 file changed, 15 insertions(+), 19 deletions(-) diff --git a/README.org b/README.org index 9e709dd..2c7e944 100644 --- a/README.org +++ b/README.org @@ -64,17 +64,7 @@ trade them with the springs from your black switches. The blacks then become the equivalent of reds, and the blues become MX green switches, which are a heavier variant of blues. These are typically used for space bars on boards that otherwise use blues. They could be suitable -for non-modifier thumb keys. - -**** Recommended switch types for bottom row - -- red: shift, super -- black: fn, ctrl, alt -- green: space, backspace, enter? - -If you don't bother with the spring replacement step mentioned above, -use blues instead of greens and blacks instead of reds. Or just use -whatever switches you want; it's your board! +for non-modifier thumb keys like backspace, space, and enter. *** Diodes @@ -82,17 +72,21 @@ In order to avoid ghosting, each switch needs a [[http://www.digikey.com/product *** Microcontroller -An [[https://www.adafruit.com/products/1315][Arduino Micro]] or [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]] is recommended. +An [[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/programmers-development-systems/evaluation-boards-embedded-mcu-dsp/2621773?k=arduino%20micro][Arduino Micro]] or [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]] is recommended. Be sure to get one +without headers so it will fit in between the bottom layer and the plate. *** Keycaps -This [[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/product/dsa-pbt-blank-sets][DSA-shaped base set]] has 52 1x keys plus a few extras we won't use. +This [[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/product/dsa-pbt-blank-sets][DSA-shaped base set]] from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a +few extras we won't use. It claims on that page to contain only one +deep key, but my shipment contained two, which I put under the index +finger keys to help guide your hands without looking. *** Screws -Seven M3 machine screws hold the whole thing together. The length of -the screws depends on the thickness of the materials you use for the -case. +Seven M3 machine screws and nuts hold the whole thing together. The +length of the screws depends on the thickness of the materials you use +for the case. ** Case @@ -103,7 +97,9 @@ Layered laser-cut acrylic; see [[file:case.svg][case.svg]]. The first two shapes in the case file are the top and bottom covers; these should be cut on 3mm acrylic (black in the photo). The third is the spacer that goes under the fourth, which is the plate on which the -switches are mounted. These should be cut in 4.5mm. +switches are mounted. These should be cut in 6mm, especially the +spacer, which needs to be at least as thick as the micro USB cable you +connect to the microcontroller. On a 100W Epilog laser, the 3mm layers cut in about a minute and a half. I did a run with 6mm acrylic of the other layers which took @@ -124,13 +120,13 @@ make sense otherwise. - 5 MX Blacks @ 0.80 - 42 diodes @ $0.052 - Base keycap set: $18.00 -- Teensy 2: $16 +- Teensy 2: $16 OR Arduino Micro: $25 - Acrylic materials: $11 - Acrylic laser cutting: 6 at $3/min (varies by thickness of acrylic) =(+ 37 (* 5 0.8) (* 42 0.052) 18 16 11 (* 3 6))= -> 106.18 plus tax/shipping -- Digikey (switches and diodes) US shipping: $5.32 +- Digikey (switches, diodes, arduino?) US shipping: $5.32 - Signature Plastics (keycaps) shipping: $8.00 - PJRC (teensy) shipping: $3.03 -- 2.39.2