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authorArmaan Bhojwani <>2021-01-13 16:20:39 -0500
committerArmaan Bhojwani <>2021-01-13 16:34:35 -0500
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parent26600cccc933332dbc87cac5208388dee352c7b0 (diff)
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-# atreides Keyboard
-This keyboard is a fork of the [Atreides]( keyboard with the notable additions of:
- - A trackpoint
+# atreides keyboard
+This keyboard is a fork of the [Atreus]( keyboard with the notable additions of:
- A bank of function keys on the left
+ - A trackpoint
- A rotary encoder
- An OLED screen
-There is no pre-made PCB, and it must be hardwired
-## Parts
-### Switches
-This layout has five modifiers and 37 non-modifiers.
-I strongly prefer the feel and sound of tactile [Matias Clicky]( switches for typing. However, I like having [Matias Linear switches]( switches on the modifier keys (ctrl, alt, super, shift, and fn) because the tactile effect has no benefit for keys that are held down, and giving a different response helps you learn the layout more quickly.
-For users that need to operate in sound-sensitive environments like open offices or libraries, [Matias Quiet Click]( switches are a popular choice since they still offer tactility without the noise. Other users prefer switches in the [Cherry MX]( family, which use different keycaps and switch plates but still work fine.
-### Diodes
-In order to avoid ghosting, each switch needs a diode. The [1N4148]( is a readily-available choice, but nearly any signal diode would work.
-### Microcontroller
-Any Pro Micro compatible microcontroller will do. Be sure to get a microcontroller without headers so it will fit in between the bottom layer and the plate. USB micro is preferred over USB mini for this reason as well.
-### Keycaps
-Sculpted caps are available [from Matias]( or by harvesting from old Alps keyboards. It's recommended that you use unlabeled keys, because due to the different sizes and orientations of certain keys (backspace, shift, enter, etc) many of the labels will be incorrect if present.
-Cherry switches have more options. This [DSA-shaped base set]( (spherical indentations on the key, same profile for each row) from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a few extras we won't use. There are two "deep dish" keys in that set which you can place under your index fingers on the home row to help guide your hands to the right spot without looking. However, you only get a single 1.5x keycap, and the middle two thumb keys both use them, so you might want to pick up an extra.
+There is no pre-made PCB, it must be hardwired.
## Case
-Layered laser-cut wood or acrylic. The [mark II case]( (EPS files in the `case/` directory) features 8 screw holes and a kind of "stair step" design around the top and bottom of the key clusters; mark I has straight lines.
-The files `alps-top-plate-3mm.eps`, `alps-switch-plate-3mm.eps`, and `bottom-plate-3mm.eps` are to be cut in 3mm acrylic or wood. The `spacer.eps` file can be cut on something thicker; between 4.5mm and 6mm is recommended. Alternatively you can cut it in 3mm twice. The spacer needs to be at least as thick as the connector of the USB cable you're using. If you are using Cherry switches, you should use `cherry-3mm.eps` for the top, switch, and bottom plates instead, but the spacer is the same.
-There is also a programmatically-implemented version of the case written in OpenSCAD; it is more flexible (you can tweak the number of rows/cols, etc and recompile) but it doesn't match the canonical case exactly; in particular the screw holes are placed differently.
-The original case (`case-mk-i.svg`) design is also included; it is slightly less wide and has a minor asymmetry with the screws on the bottom side.
-On a 100W Epilog laser, the 3mm layers cut in about a minute and a half. I did a run with 6mm acrylic of the other layers which took nearly 6 minutes.
-Wood cases should be finished with sandpaper and lacquer, shellac, or polyurethane.
+The case design is written in OpenSCAD, and is easily tweakable to your liking. Wood cases should be finished with sandpaper and lacquer, shellac, or polyurethane.
## Bill of Materials
- - 50 Matias or Cherry switches
+ - 47 Cherry compatible switches
- 50 diodes
- - 40 1x, 2 1.5x
- - Compatable microcontroller (described above)
+ - 40 1u and 2 1.5u keycaps
+ - Pro Micro compatible microcontroller without headers
- Case materials
- - Case laser cutting: 7.5 minutes on a 100W Epilog laser; varies by
- source
- - Micro-USB cable, get anywhere
-Recommended but optional:
- - 5 linear Matias or Cherry switches
-The base keycap set from Signature Plastics only has one 1.5x key, which is used for the inner thumb keys. You can use a 1x key for one of them, but it looks kind of tacky, so I recommend getting a second 1.5x keycap separately.
-### Other Tools
-You'll need a soldering iron, solder, glue gun, hookup wire, wire strippers and a wire cutter. A multimeter can come in handy for testing the connections but is optional. You'll also need eight M3 machine screws with nuts; the length of the screws depends on the thickness of the acrylic you use. You can add rubber feet to the bottom to prevent the board from sliding around when placed on a desk. You'll also need sandpaper and lacquer for the wooden case.
-## Inspiration
-These fine projects all provided inspiration for various aspects of the Atreides/Atreides, as well as the folks on the `#geekhack` Freenode channel.
- - [Ergodox](
- - [OneHand](
- - [](
- - [ErgoT](
+ - Micro-USB cable
## License
Copyright © 2014-2020 Phil Hagelberg and contributors, 2021 Armaan Bhojwani <>
Released under the GNU GPLv3, see the LICENSE file for more information.