: q w e r t || y u i o p
: a s d f g || h j k l ;
: z x c v b || n m , . /
- : esc tab super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn enter pgup pgdn
+ : esc tab super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn pgup pgdn enter
The numbers and most punctuation are on the fn layer:
: 1 2 3 4 5 || 6 7 8 9 0
: - + ( ) = || / [ ] { }
: ! @ # $ % || ^ & * ~ ?
- : reset ` || _ | \
+ : reset ` || hwdv _ | \
-I type in Dvorak but prefer to do the remapping in software rather than
-hardware so I don't have to change layouts when I switch to my
-laptop's internal keyboard. This is all a matter of firmware though;
-the layout is easy to change after the fact.
+I type in Dvorak but prefer to do the remapping in software rather
+than hardware so I don't have to change layouts when I switch to my
+laptop's internal keyboard. The =hwdv= key does provide a hardware
+dvorak layer for using other peoples' computers though. This is all a
+matter of firmware though; the layout is easy to change after the
+fact.
** Parts
You should be able to cd into the =keyboard/atreus= directory and run
=make KEYMAP\=atreus= (or whichever variant you want) to produce a
-=atreus.hex= file. Use this with the [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html][teensy loader]] or Arduino tools to
-upload to the microcontroller.
+qwerty =atreus.hex= file. You might want to create your own layout
+once you've gotten a chance to try it and see what works for you. Use
+the =.hex= file with the [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html][teensy loader]] or Arduino tools to upload to the
+microcontroller.
Once the firmware is loaded and the keyboard is assembled, pressing
the onboard reset button to update new versions of the firmware is
Once the switches are in place, the matrix must be created. I
recommend getting red wire for the rows and black for the columns. The
-rows need eight strands of wire with the insulation exposed at
-intervals matching the spacing of the switches; see the above photo for
+rows need eight wires with the insulation exposed at intervals
+matching the spacing of the switches; see the above photo for
details. You could also just use many short stripped segments of wire
instead of a contiguous piece. Most of the row wires will need four
segments of insulation, but you'll need two with five for the rows