--- /dev/null
+\documentclass{article}
+\title{Atreus Keyboard Assembly}
+\date{ }
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\begin{document}
+\setlength{\parindent}{0cm}
+\maketitle
+\section{Prerequisites}
+
+In order to assemble your keyboard, you'll need your kit plus a few
+other tools. The kit should contain these parts and a few spares:
+
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Case (top plate, switch plate, spacer, bottom plate)
+\item Sandpaper
+\item Finishing wax
+\item Diodes (42)
+\item Cherry MX switches (37 blue/clear, 5 red)
+\item A-Star Micro controller
+\item Machine screws and nuts (8 each, 16mm M3 size)
+\item Key caps (40 normal, 2 long)
+\item USB micro cable
+\item Rubber feet
+\end{itemize}
+
+You'll also need to have these on hand:
+
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Soldering iron and solder
+\item Wire cutters
+\item Brush for applying finishing wax (a toothbrush will do)
+\item Optional: ``helping hands'' stand
+\end{itemize}
+
+\vspace{1em}
+
+The latest version of this document can always be found
+online.\footnote{http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf} If you're
+reading a black-and-white printed copy, you may find some of the
+photos clearer in color onscreen. This copy describes
+the circuit-board-based kit. If you have an earlier hand-wired kit,
+see the older assembly
+guide.\footnote{http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf}
+
+\section{Sanding Case}
+
+The wood finishing process involves sanding down the wood to remove
+scorch marks and produce a smooth surface, applying an oil/wax mixture
+to further smooth it and protect it from fluids, and allowing it to
+dry. The whole process takes about 45 minutes of work, but since each
+side has to dry individually plan on allowing for a couple 30-minute
+breaks to let it dry. You'll need a place to lay the pieces aside to
+dry; a paper towel would help keep the oil from getting all over your
+table or desk.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+
+Start by sanding down both sides of each piece. You may want to hold
+two pieces together while sanding for strength or placing it on a flat
+surface you don't mind scruffing up; too much pressure on a single
+plate could damage it.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
+\includegraphics[width=\linewidth]{sanding.jpg}}
+\vspace{1em}
+
+Keep in mind that the top side of the top plate and the bottom side of
+the bottom plate are the only surfaces that are exposed to the touch
+once the keyboard is fully assembled, so these will need the most
+attention when sanding. You can sand the other surfaces as well just
+to get the scorch marks off, but you don't need to worry about how
+smooth the inner surfaces feel to the touch.
+
+\section{Oiling Case}
+
+Be sure to get all the wood dust off the pieces before you go on. Open
+up the wax/oil mixture. Dip your brush in and start spreading it over
+one side of each case piece. The color of the wood will darken as it
+absorbs the oil. Try to ensure it's spread evenly. Be more generous
+with the oil on the outer exposed surfaces.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
+\includegraphics[width=\linewidth]{oiled.jpg}}
+\vspace{1em}
+
+As your brush goes over the edges of the laser-cut wood, it will get
+dirty from charred wood particles. After you've finished oiling one
+side of each piece, it's best to wash out the brush. Be sure it's
+fully dry before going on.
+
+\section{Drying Case}
+
+Once one side of each piece is finished, you'll need to lay them out
+for a half hour or so to let them dry. Once one side is dry, repeat
+the process on the other side. After you've finished all the soldering
+you can come back and add another few coats to the outermost surfaces
+for a smoother texture. Once it's dried for a while, wipe the excess
+off. While you're waiting, you can start soldering the diodes and
+controller onto the circuit board, but don't solder any switches in
+before the switch plate is ready or you'll just need to remove them
+later.
+
+\section{Diodes}
+
+If you've never soldered before, there are plenty of good
+introductions online.\footnote{This one from Adafruit is great:
+ https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/tools}
+Coat the tip of the iron thinly with some solder before you start. The
+key is to use the iron to heat the joint for a second or two, then
+bring in a dab of the solder and let it melt and stick to the
+component and the circuit board pad.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+
+Take five diodes at a time and bend them into a U shape. Place them
+into the diode holes next to each switch slot on the reverse side of
+the board. Each diode has a black band on it; the band should be
+pointing to the bottom of the circuit board, toward the arrow on the
+board. Bend the legs of the diodes outwards to hold them in place,
+then flip the board over and solder them in place.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
+ \includegraphics[width=\linewidth]{diodes.jpg}}
+\vspace{1em}
+
+Once they're soldered, trim the diode legs with wire
+cutters. (This step should be done with protective eye covering.) Keep
+the diode legs; they will be needed in the next step.
+
+\section{Controller}
+
+Once the diodes are in place, you can begin attaching the
+controller. This is the trickiest part of the assembly process, so
+once you knock this out it's all down hill. First pre-fill all the
+holes we're going to use on the controller with solder. (This is all
+the left side ones, plus all the right side ones except 3V3, 5V, and
+VIN.) If you have a ``helping hands'' stand, this is where it comes in
+useful.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+
+Take six trimmed diode legs and stick them into the top six pins on
+the right-hand side of the controller by melting the pre-filled
+solder. Solder one into the pin labeled ``GND'' as well. Put one in
+the top and bottom pins on the other side, labeled ``0'' and
+``9''. We'll leave out the rest on the left for now to make
+it easier to insert the controller into the circuit board, but we'll
+make another pass to get those in next.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
+ \includegraphics[width=\linewidth]{controller-legs.jpg}}
+\vspace{1em}
+
+Straighten the attached legs as much as possible and carefully insert
+them through the circuit board. Once they are in, you'll want to
+populate the remaining left-side pins. Hold the board vertical either
+using a set of helping hands or pinned between your knees as shown
+below. Insert a diode leg through the circuit board hole so it touches
+the already-solder-filled hole on the controller. Melt the solder
+while pushing the diode leg barely through. You can blow on the solder
+joint to cool it more quickly so it firms up.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
+ \includegraphics[width=0.5\linewidth]{insert-pin.jpg}}
+\vspace{1em}
+
+Once the pins are all in place on the controller side, it's time to
+attach them to the circuit board. Bend them outwards and solder each
+one, then trim all the legs.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
+ \includegraphics[width=\linewidth]{seated.jpg}}
+\vspace{1em}
+
+Before you go on, take the time to double-check the solder joints on
+the controller. The solder should fill the hole completely without
+spilling over to adjacent holes, and the legs should be secure. Also
+check that all the diodes are facing the correct direction with the
+black band on the bottom side. Once the switches are in place, the
+controller will be pinned between the switch plate and the circuit
+board, making it difficult to make further changes to the controller.
+
+\section{Switches}
+
+\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
+ \includegraphics[width=\linewidth]{switch-corners.jpg}}
+
+\vspace{1em}
+
+Next take four switches and place each switch in a corner of the
+switch plate. Put the switch plate face-down on the table with the
+pins sticking up. Carefully fit the circuit board over the protruding
+pins and posts and solder those to hold the circuit board and the
+switch plate together. The labeled side of the board should be
+face-up. Take care that the switch pins are straight; pushing in a
+switch with a pin that's a bit bent will bend it flat and prevent it
+from poking through the circuit board.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+
+If your kit has five linear switches (non-tactile, usually red) place
+those in the modifier positions next and solder them in. These all go
+on the bottom row: SW3:3, SW5:0, SW6:0, SW8:3, and SW9:3. Then proceed
+with the rest of the switches. The switches should pin the switch
+plate to the circuit board.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
+ \includegraphics[width=\linewidth]{switches.jpg}}
+\vspace{1em}
+
+\section{Wrapping up}
+
+Plug in the USB micro cable into the controller, and plug the other
+side into your computer. Get a copy of the
+firmware \footnote{Available at
+ https://github.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware} and its
+dependencies, \texttt{avrdude} and \texttt{gcc-avr}, linked in the
+firmware readme. The first time you upload the firmware, you will have
+to use the backup reset to enter the bootloader: take a diode leg or
+wire and touch one end to the reset pin and one end to the ground
+pin. (These are the bottom-most two exposed pins on the right-hand
+side of the controller.) Touch them together twice in under a second
+and the LED will begin pulsing. This indicates it has entered the
+bootloader for 8 seconds.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+
+While in the bootloader, type \texttt{make upload} from the firmware
+directory. The firmware should be uploaded\footnote{See the firmware
+ readme for instructions about customizing the layout.}, and it
+should start acting as a keyboard. (At this point if you need to
+upload it again, you can use the reset key instead of touching the
+pins together.) Now would be a good time to test each switch by typing
+``The quick, brown fox jumped over the lazy dog.'' and hitting the
+other few keys which aren't hit by that phrase.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+
+If there's a misbehaving switch, it's often caused by a cold
+joint. Reflow the solder on both contacts of the switch and the
+diode. If an entire row or column is out, it's probably the connection
+to the controller. You can follow the traces for the columns back
+to the middle, but the rows on the back of the board are obscured when
+the keyboard is assembled. The bottom four pins on the left correspond
+to the four rows, top to bottom. Reflowing the pin's solder for the
+affected row or column is usually enough to get it working.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+
+Before you place the rubber feet on the bottom plate near the corners,
+consider giving the outer case another coat or two of wax and allowing
+it to dry. Then close the case by placing the switch plate on top of
+the spacer and bottom plate, placing the top plate on it, and screwing
+it together with the nuts on top. If the rubber feet don't stay on
+with the provided adhesive, white glue may be needed to secure them.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+
+All that's left is to place the keycaps. The larger keycaps go on the
+middle thumb keys.
+
+\vspace{1em}
+
+Congratulations. Enjoy your new keyboard.
+
+%% \noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
+%% \includegraphics[width=\linewidth]{finished.jpg}}
+
+\end{document}
projects / atreides.git / commitdiff
