+** Other Tools
+
+You'll need a soldering iron, solder, a glue gun, a multimeter, wire,
+wire strippers, and a USB micro cable. You'll also need seven M3
+machine screws with nuts; the length of the screws depends on the
+thickness of the acrylic you use.
+
+** Assembly
+
+Once you have all the parts, the first thing to do is glue the
+switches to the switch plate since there's no PCB to hold them in
+place. Be aware that the screw holes unfortunately are not
+symmetrical, so before inserting the switches it's important to ensure
+that the plate is right-side-up. Use a drop of hot glue on the top and
+bottom of each switch to affix it in place.
+
+Once the switches are in place, the matrix must be created. I
+recommend getting red wire for the rows and black for the columns. The
+rows need eight strands of wire with the insulation exposed at
+intervals matching the spacing of the switches; see [[https://secure.flickr.com/photos/43319799@N00/12669228444][this photo]] for
+details. You could also just use many short stripped segments of wire
+instead of a contiguous piece. Most of the row wires will need four
+segments of insulation, but you'll need two with five for the rows
+with the inner thumb keys. Physically the inner thumb keys look like
+two additional columns, but logically they are treated as if they're
+in the same column with the left one in row 3 and the right one in
+row 4.
+
+The exposed sections of row wire should be connected to the higher of
+the pins on the switch using a diode. Be aware that diodes are
+directional! The band around the diode should point to the top of the
+board. Take care with the upper row that you don't let the wire go too
+high; avoid getting in the way of the spacer layer. Once the
+rows are wired, the remaining (negative) pin of each switch should be
+wired into the negative pin of the switch above and below it. Use
+black wire. This should be slightly easier since no diode is
+necessary. [[https://secure.flickr.com/photos/43319799@N00/12668880863][This photo]] shows the completed matrix for one side. Test
+each row and column as you go with a multimeter. You should be able to
+get continuity from row to column when the corresponding switch is
+activated.
+
+After the matrix has been wired on both sides, the next step is to
+connect the microcontroller. The TMK firmware has the rows in pins D0,
+D1, D2, and D3 of the microcontroller. You'll need to connect the rows
+from both the left and right sides into the proper pin. There are more
+columns than rows, so I used ribbon cable to bring the column
+connections back to the microcontroller from the outside in. The
+columns go to pins F0, F1, E6, C7, C6, B6, D4, B1, B0, B5, and
+B4. It's important to realize that when you flip over the board
+in order to solder it, you have to flip over the schematic in your
+mind too. If you count your columns from the left, you'll get them
+backwards. (Which I actually did for the first half.) You can see [[https://secure.flickr.com/photos/43319799@N00/1270569443y3][my
+wiring of the microcontroller]].
+
+Once you've wired one side of the microcontroller in, it would be a
+good time to test it. You'll need to install the [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html][teensy loader]] and
+point it at the .hex file from the tmk firmware build. Then hit the
+physical reset button on the Teensy itself. At this point you should
+be reading real keycodes from the half of the keyboard that you've
+wired. Once you've confirmed that's working, continue with the other
+half. Then screw the other layers in place and you're all set!