shift, enter, etc) many of the labels will be incorrect if present.
Cherry switches have more options. This
-[[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/products/full-keysets/dsa-blank-sets-1][DSA-shaped base set]] (spherical indentations on the key, same profile for each
+[[http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/][DSA-shaped base set]] (spherical indentations on the key, same profile for each
row) from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a few extras we won't
use. There are two "deep dish" keys in that set which you can place
under your index fingers on the home row to help guide your hands to
Layered laser-cut wood or acrylic. The [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic%3D54759.msg1304117#msg1304117][mark II case]] (EPS files in the
=case/= directory) features 8 screw holes and a kind of "stair step"
-design around the top and bottom of the key clusters; mark I is
-pictured below.
+design around the top and bottom of the key clusters; mark I has
+straight lines.
-The =3mm-alps-all.eps= file contains the top plate, bottom plate, and
-switch plate for Matias switches. =3mm.eps= contains the files for
-Cherry boards. These pieces can all be cut on 3mm acrylic or wood. The
+The files =alps-top-plate-3mm.eps=, =alps-switch-plate-3mm.eps=, and
+=bottom-plate-3mm.eps= are to be cut in 3mm acrylic or wood. The
=spacer.eps= file should be cut on something thicker; between 4.5mm
and 6mm is recommended. The spacer needs to be at least as thick as
-the connector of the USB cable you're using.
+the connector of the USB cable you're using. If you are using Cherry
+switches, you should use =cherry-3mm.eps= for the top, switch, and
+bottom plates instead, but the spacer is the same.
There is also a programmatically-implemented version of the case
written in OpenSCAD; it is more flexible (you can tweak the number of
projects / atreides.git / blobdiff