versatile of the fingers. This design avoids both these problems while
taking a more couch-friendly single-piece approach.
-[[atreus.jpg]]
+[[./atreus.jpg]]
Having so few keys, this board is pretty idiosyncratic. It works very
well for the kind of work that I do, but it probably wouldn't be a
** Case
-Layered laser-cut acrylic; see [[file:case.svg][case.svg]].
+Layered laser-cut acrylic; see [[file:./case.svg][the =case.svg= file]].
-[[layers.jpg][layers.jpg]]
+[[./layers.jpg]]
The first two shapes in the case file are the top and bottom covers;
these should be cut on 3mm acrylic (black in the photo). The third is
that the plate is right-side-up. Use a drop of hot glue on the top and
bottom of each switch to affix it in place.
-[[wires.jpg]]
+[[./wires.jpg]]
Once the switches are in place, the matrix must be created. I
recommend getting red wire for the (postitive) rows and black for the
above photo for details. You could also just use many short stripped
segments of wire instead of a contiguous piece.
-[[thumb-diagram.jpg]]
+[[./thumb-diagram.png]]
Most of the row wires will need four segments of insulation, but
you'll need two with five for the rows with the inner thumb
columns, but logically they are treated as if they're in the same
column with the left one in row 3 and the right one in row 4.
-[[matrix.jpg]]
+[[./matrix.jpg]]
The exposed sections of row wire should be connected to the higher of
the pins on the switch using a diode. Be aware that diodes are
mind too. If you count your columns from the left, you'll get them
backwards. (Which I actually did for the first half.)
-[[controller.jpg]]
+[[./controller.jpg]]
Once you've wired one side of the microcontroller in, it would be a
good time to test it. You'll need to compile and upload as per the