* Atreus Keyboard
-The [[http://ergodox.org][Ergodox]] keyboard is an absolutely fantastic design; I use it every
-day at my office. However, I like to work away from the office
-frequently, and I thought I might try my hand at designing something a
-little more portable. The great thing about assembling my Ergodox is
-that it taught be there's really nothing magical about it; it's just a
-piece of circuitry with a bunch of switches read by a microcontroller
-that speaks the USB HID interface.
-
-The Atreus is meant to be complementary to the Ergodox as something
-smaller, cheaper, and more travel-friendly. The case measures 25x11cm
-and lacks even a number row, relying heavily upon the fn key. There is
-no PCB in this design, requiring [[http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Hard-Wiring_How-To.html][a manual matrix wiring approach]].
-However, given that there are only 4 rows and 11 columns, this isn't
-as daunting as it could be.
+The Atreus is a mechanical keyboard designed primarily to match the
+shape of human hands and to be as portable as possible. The case
+measures 26x12cm and lacks even a number row, relying heavily upon the
+=fn= key. There is a circuit board for this design, but it's also
+possible to [[http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Hard-Wiring_How-To][manually wire the matrix]].
I've seen a number of existing DIY 40% keyboard designs, but most of
them stagger the rows, which I find very annoying now that I've gotten
-used to the columnar layout of the Ergodox. In addition, many of the
+used to the columnar layout of the [[https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=22780.0][Ergodox]]. In addition, many of the
designs I've seen waste a lot of room on the space bar, failing to
take into account the fact that the thumb is the strongest and most
-versatile of the fingers. This design avoids both these problems.
+versatile of the fingers. This design avoids both these problems while
+taking a more couch-friendly single-piece approach.
-[[atreus.jpg]]
+[[./atreus.jpg]]
+
+See [[./changelog.md][the changelog]] for the various revisions made to the design since
+its initial release.
+
+** Kits
+
+You can buy [[http://atreus.technomancy.us][Atreus kits]] that have all the parts you need along with
+detailed assembly instructions from http://atreus.technomancy.us. If
+you'd rather round up all the parts yourself, that's possible too
+since the design is completely open source; see the bill of materials
+below.
** Layout
-Only a handful of punctuation marks (and no digits) available
-unshifted, and all the modifiers are on the bottom row.
+Only a handful of punctuation marks (and no digits) are available
+unshifted, and all the modifiers are on the bottom row:
: q w e r t || y u i o p
: a s d f g || h j k l ;
: z x c v b || n m , . /
- : esc tab fn shift bksp ctrl || alt space enter super pgup pgdn
+ : esc tab super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn - ' enter
+
+The numbers and most of the punctuation are on the fn layer with a
+numpad-style arrangement under the right hand:
-The numbers and most punctuation are on the fn layer:
+ : ! @ up { } || pgup 7 8 9 *
+ : # left down right $ || pgdn 4 5 6 +
+ : [ ] ( ) & || ` 1 2 3 \
+ : L2 insert super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn . 0 =
- : 1 2 3 4 5 || 6 7 8 9 0
- : - + ( ) = || / [ ] { }
- : ! @ # $ % || ^ & * ? ~
- : || ` _ \
+The =L2= key switches it to the function layer, and tapping =L0= here
+brings it back to the first layer.
-I type in Dvorak but prefer to do the remapping in software rather than
-hardware so I don't have to change layouts when I switch to my
-laptop's internal keyboard.
+ : insert home ↑ end pgup || ↑ F7 F8 F9 F10
+ : del ← ↓ → pgdn || ↓ F4 F5 F6 F11
+ : reset || F1 F2 F3 F12
+ : super shift bksp ctrl || alt space L0
+
+The [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/tmk][firmware]] includes a number of other options, including
+colemak, dvorak, and "software dvorak" which sends keycodes assuming
+the OS will perform the translation into dvorak. Adding new layouts or
+changing existing ones is easy.
** Parts
This layout has five modifiers and 37 non-modifiers.
-I strongly prefer the feel and sound of tactile [[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MX1A-E1NW/CH197-ND/20180][Cherry MX blue]]
-switches for typing. However, I like having linear switches on the
-modifier keys (ctrl, alt, super, shift, and fn). [[http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts/cherry-mx-red-keyswitch-mx1a-l1nn-linear.html][Cherry MX red
-switches]] are nice and light but are expensive and difficult to
-find. [[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MX1A-11NW/CH160-ND/91134][Cherry MX black switches]] are cheaper and easier to source, but
-may be too heavy, especially for keys under pinky fingers.
-
-One trick is take the springs from some of your blue switches and
-trade them with the springs from your black switches. The blacks then
-become the equivalent of reds, and the blues become MX green switches,
-which are a heavier variant of blues. These are typically used for
-space bars on boards that otherwise use blues. They could be suitable
-for non-modifier thumb keys like backspace, space, and enter.
+I strongly prefer the feel and sound of tactile [[https://deskthority.net/wiki/Matias_switch#Click][Matias Clicky]]
+switches for typing. However, I like having [[https://deskthority.net/wiki/Matias_switch#Linear][Matias Linear
+switches]] switches on the modifier keys (ctrl, alt, super, shift, and
+fn) because the tactile effect has no benefit for keys that are held
+down, and giving a different response helps you learn the layout more
+quickly.
+
+For users that need to operate in sound-sensitive environments like
+open offices or libraries,
+[[http://deskthority.net/wiki/Matias_switch#Quiet_click][Matias Quiet
+Click]] switches are a popular choice since they still offer tactility
+without the noise. Other users prefer switches in the
+[[http://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX][Cherry MX]] family, which use
+different keycaps and switch plates but still work fine.
*** Diodes
-In order to avoid ghosting, each switch needs a [[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1N4148TR/1N4148FSTR-ND/458811][diode]].
+In order to avoid ghosting, each switch needs a diode. The [[https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062587][1N4148]] is a
+readily-available choice, but nearly any signal diode would work.
*** Microcontroller
-An [[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/programmers-development-systems/evaluation-boards-embedded-mcu-dsp/2621773?k=arduino%20micro][Arduino Micro]] or [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]] is recommended. Be sure to get one
-without headers so it will fit in between the bottom layer and the plate.
+The circuit board design uses a [[http://www.pololu.com/product/3101][Pololu A-star micro]]. Hand-wired boards
+can also use a [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]] or [[http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMicro][Arduino Pro Micro]].
-*** Keycaps
+Be sure to get a microcontroller without headers so it will fit in
+between the bottom layer and the plate. USB micro is preferred over
+USB mini for this reason as well.
-This [[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/product/dsa-pbt-blank-sets][DSA-shaped base set]] from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a
-few extras we won't use. It claims on that page to contain only one
-deep key, but my shipment contained two, which I put under the index
-finger keys to help guide your hands without looking.
-
-*** Screws
+*** Keycaps
-Seven M3 machine screws and nuts hold the whole thing together. The
-length of the screws depends on the thickness of the materials you use
-for the case.
+Caps for Matias switches are included in the official kits. Sculpted
+caps are also available [[http://matias.ca/order/#keycaps][from Matias]] or by harvesting from old Alps
+keyboards. It's recommended that you use unlabeled keys, because due
+to the different sizes and orientations of certain keys (backspace,
+shift, enter, etc) many of the labels will be incorrect if present.
+
+Cherry switches have more options. This
+[[http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dsa-pbt-abs-blank-keycap-sets/][DSA-shaped base set]] (spherical indentations on the key, same profile for each
+row) from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a few extras we won't
+use. There are two "deep dish" keys in that set which you can place
+under your index fingers on the home row to help guide your hands to
+the right spot without looking. However, you only get a single 1.5x
+keycap, and the middle two thumb keys both use them, so you might want
+to pick up an extra.
+
+** Circuit Board
+
+The =atreus.rkt= program calculates switch and diode positions based
+on row/column counts, spacing, and rotation factors, and emits a
+=atreus.kicad_pcb= file. The board outline and traces are done by hand
+and are stored in the =header.rktd= and =traces.rktd= files
+respectively. The =atreus.kicad_pcb= file can be imported into [[http://kicad-pcb.org][Kicad]]
+which can export Gerber files suitable for fabrication. A copy of the
+Kicad PCB file is included in the repository if you don't want to
+recompile it using Racket. Recompiling is only required if you want to
+make changes to the procedurally-generated portions of the board.
+
+Unfortunately most PCB fabricators require a minimum order of 10 or
+so, making this impractical for one-offs. The PCB is not required, so
+for one-off boards it's usually more sensible to stick with a [[http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf][hand-wired build]] instead.
** Case
-Layered laser-cut acrylic; see [[file:case.svg][case.svg]].
+Layered laser-cut wood or acrylic. The [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic%3D54759.msg1304117#msg1304117][mark II case]] (EPS files in the
+=case/= directory) features 8 screw holes and a kind of "stair step"
+design around the top and bottom of the key clusters; mark I is
+pictured below.
+
+The =3mm-alps-all.eps= file contains the top plate, bottom plate, and
+switch plate for Matias switches. =3mm.eps= contains the files for
+Cherry boards. These pieces can all be cut on 3mm acrylic or wood. The
+=spacer.eps= file should be cut on something thicker; between 4.5mm
+and 6mm is recommended. The spacer needs to be at least as thick as
+the connector of the USB cable you're using.
-[[layers.jpg][layers.jpg]]
+There is also a programmatically-implemented version of the case
+written in OpenSCAD; it is more flexible (you can tweak the number of
+rows/cols, etc and recompile) but it doesn't match the canonical case
+exactly; in particular the screw holes are placed differently.
-The first two shapes in the case file are the top and bottom covers;
-these should be cut on 3mm acrylic (black in the photo). The third is
-the spacer that goes under the fourth, which is the plate on which the
-switches are mounted. These should be cut in 6mm, especially the
-spacer, which needs to be at least as thick as the micro USB cable you
-connect to the microcontroller.
+The original case (=case-mk-i.svg=) design is also included; it is
+slightly less wide and has a minor asymmetry with the screws on the
+bottom side.
On a 100W Epilog laser, the 3mm layers cut in about a minute and a
half. I did a run with 6mm acrylic of the other layers which took
nearly 6 minutes.
+Wood cases should be finished with sandpaper and finishing oil/wax or
+with [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/lacquer.pdf][lacquer]] which
+takes longer but feels nicer.
+
** Firmware
-My [[https://github.com/technomancy/tmk_keyboard/tree/atreus][fork of the tmk firmware]] has support for the Atreus
-layout. Currently only supports software-dvorak--the default layer is
-all qwerty, but the punctuation keys send keycodes assuming that the
-qwerty->dvorak transformation will be applied to them, so they don't
-make sense otherwise.
+The [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/tmk][TMK firmware]] is
+recommended. You should be able to change into the =keyboard/atreus=
+directory and run =make KEYMAP=qwerty= (or whichever variant you want)
+to produce a qwerty =atreus.hex= file. You will probably want to
+create your own layout once you've gotten a chance to try it and see
+what works for you. See the readme for instructions of how to upload
+it to the keyboard's controller.
+
+There is also the older [[https://github.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware][atreus-firmware]] custom codebase which works
+but has fewer features. It is recommended mostly for learning purposes
+since the code is much simpler and easier to understand than TMK.
+
+** Bill of Materials
+
+If you don't want to get [[https://atreus.technomancy.us][the kit]] you can source parts yourself. (You
+can also order a partial kit if you want to customize some of the
+parts.) Using Cherry switches is cheapest unless you can find cheap
+Alps-mount keycaps:
+
+- 50 Matias or Cherry switches from mechanicalkeyboards.com
+- 50 diodes from radio shack, ebay, or whatever
+- 40 1x, 2 1.5x Keycaps from signatureplastics.com OR full keycap set from matias.ca
+- A-star micro from pololu.com
+- Case materials from various sources
+- Case laser cutting: 7.5 minutes on a 100W Epilog laser; varies by source
+- USB micro cable, get anywhere
+
+Recommended but optional:
+
+- 5 linear Matias or Cherry switches
+
+The base keycap set from Signature Plastics only has one 1.5x key,
+which is used for the inner thumb keys. You can use a 1x key for one
+of them, but it looks kind of tacky, so I recommend getting a second
+1.5x keycap separately.
+
+*** Other Tools
+
+You'll need a soldering iron, solder, and a wire cutter. A multimeter
+can come in handy for testing the connections but is optional. You'll
+also need eight M3 machine screws with nuts; the length of the screws
+depends on the thickness of the acrylic you use. You can add rubber
+feet to the bottom to prevent the board from sliding around when
+placed on a desk. You'll also need sandpaper and lacquer for the
+wooden case.
+
+If you are building a hand-wired board you will also need a glue gun,
+hookup wire, and wire strippers.
+
+** Assembly
+
+See the [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf][assembly instructions]] PDF.
+
+Hand-wired boards will want the [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf][previous edition of the assembly instructions]].
+
+The LaTeX source to the assembly instructions is in the =assembly= directory.
+
+** Inspiration
-** Recommended Bill of Materials
+These fine projects all provided inspiration for various aspects of
+the Atreus, as well as the folks on the =#geekhack= freenode channel.
-- 37 MX Blues @ $1.00
-- 5 MX Blacks @ 0.80
-- 42 diodes @ $0.052
-- Base keycap set: $18.00
-- Teensy 2: $16 OR Arduino Micro: $25
-- USB Mini cable: $1.94
-- Acrylic materials: $11
-- Acrylic laser cutting: 6 at $3/min (varies by thickness of acrylic)
+- [[https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=22780.0][Ergodox]]
+- [[http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/onehand-20-keyboard-t6617.html][OneHand]]
+- [[http://blog.fsck.com/2013/12/better-and-better-keyboards.html][keyboard.io]]
+- [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48718][ErgoT]]
-=(+ 37 (* 5 0.8) (* 42 0.052) 18 16 1.94 11 (* 3 7.5))= -> $112.62 plus tax/shipping
+** Builds
-- Digikey (switches, diodes, arduino?) US shipping: $5.32
-- Signature Plastics (keycaps) shipping: $8.00
-- PJRC (teensy) shipping: $3.03
+If you've built an Atreus, please add your name to [[https://github.com/technomancy/atreus/wiki/BuildLogs][the build logs wiki]].
-** Cost-saving Options
+There's also a [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/list][mailing list]] for people who have built or ordered an
+Atreus or are interested in doing so.
-There are a few ways to get the cost under $100. Using all black
-switches brings it down, but I strongly recommend against this unless
-you're already familiar with the feel of the various Cherry
-switches. Using wood for the case will reduce both the materials cost
-as well as the amount of time needed to cut the case.
+** Orestes
-Replacing the colored acrylic with transparent might also save a few
-dollars. You could also use thinner acrylic for the switch plate too;
-I cut mine in 4.5mm. A thinner spacer is inadvisable; even with 6mm
-it's pretty tight.
+A new [[https://www.flickr.com/photos/technomancy/14654421878][experimental build]] uses the [[http://pjrc.com/store/teensy31.html][Teensy 3]] microcontroller and
+ARM [[https://github.com/technomancy/orestes/tree/teensy3][Forth-based]] firmware, but this is not yet suitable for general-purpose use.
** License
-Copyright © 2014 Phil Hagelberg
+Copyright © 2014-2016 Phil Hagelberg and contributors
Released under the [[https://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html][GNU GPL version 3]]
projects / atreides.git / blobdiff