-Once you have all the parts, the first thing to do is glue the
-switches to the switch plate since there's no PCB to hold them in
-place. Be aware that the screw holes unfortunately are not
-symmetrical, so before inserting the switches it's important to ensure
-that the plate is right-side-up. Use a drop of hot glue on the top and
-bottom of each switch to affix it in place.
-
-[[wires.jpg]]
-
-Once the switches are in place, the matrix must be created. I
-recommend getting red wire for the rows and black for the columns. The
-rows need eight strands of wire with the insulation exposed at
-intervals matching the spacing of the switches; see the above photo for
-details. You could also just use many short stripped segments of wire
-instead of a contiguous piece. Most of the row wires will need four
-segments of insulation, but you'll need two with five for the rows
-with the inner thumb keys. Physically the inner thumb keys look like
-two additional columns, but logically they are treated as if they're
-in the same column with the left one in row 3 and the right one in
-row 4.
-
-[[matrix.jpg]]
-
-The exposed sections of row wire should be connected to the higher of
-the pins on the switch using a diode. Be aware that diodes are
-directional! The band around the diode should point to the top of the
-board. Take care with the upper row that you don't let the wire go too
-high; avoid getting in the way of the spacer layer. Once the
-rows are wired, the remaining (negative) pin of each switch should be
-wired into the negative pin of the switch above and below it. Use
-black wire. This should be slightly easier since no diode is
-necessary. The photo above shows the completed matrix for one side. Test
-each row and column as you go with a multimeter. You should be able to
-get continuity from row to column when the corresponding switch is
-activated.
-
-After the matrix has been wired on both sides, the next step is to
-connect the microcontroller. The TMK firmware has the rows in pins D0,
-D1, D2, and D3 of the microcontroller. You'll need to connect the rows
-from both the left and right sides into the proper pin. There are more
-columns than rows, so I used ribbon cable to bring the column
-connections back to the microcontroller from the outside in. The
-columns go to pins F0, F1, E6, C7, C6, B6, D4, B1, B0, B5, and
-B4. It's important to realize that when you flip over the board
-in order to solder it, you have to flip over the schematic in your
-mind too. If you count your columns from the left, you'll get them
-backwards. (Which I actually did for the first half.)
-
-[[controller.jpg]]
-
-Once you've wired one side of the microcontroller in, it would be a
-good time to test it. You'll need to compile and upload as per the
-"Firmware" section above. At this point you should be reading real
-keycodes from the half of the keyboard that you've wired. Once you've
-confirmed that's working, continue with the other half. Then screw the
-other layers in place and you're all set!
-
-** Cost-saving Options
-
-There are a few ways to lower the cost further. Using [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=482][Matias]] key
-switches could save you a fair bit if you go in on a 90-pack with
-someone else, but they're a little harder to find keycaps for; the MX
-caps won't work on them. Using wood for the case will reduce both the
-materials cost as well as the amount of time needed to cut the case.
-
-Replacing the colored acrylic with transparent might also save a few
-dollars. You could also use thinner acrylic for the switch plate too;
-I cut mine in 4.5mm. A thinner spacer is inadvisable; even with 6mm
-it's pretty tight.
-
-Another common trick is scavenging keycaps and switches from used
-keyboards; something with Cherry or Alps switches should work. This
-can be time-consuming though.
+See the [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf][assembly instructions]] PDF.
+
+Hand-wired boards will want the [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf][previous edition of the assembly instructions]].
+
+The LaTeX source to the assembly instructions is in the =assembly= directory.
+
+** Inspiration
+
+These fine projects all provided inspiration for various aspects of
+the Atreus, as well as the folks on the =#geekhack= freenode channel.
+
+- [[https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=22780.0][Ergodox]]
+- [[http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/onehand-20-keyboard-t6617.html][OneHand]]
+- [[http://blog.fsck.com/2013/12/better-and-better-keyboards.html][keyboard.io]]
+- [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48718][ErgoT]]
+
+** Builds
+
+If you've built an Atreus, please add your name to [[https://github.com/technomancy/atreus/wiki/BuildLogs][the build logs wiki]].
+
+There's also a [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/list][mailing list]] for people who have built or ordered an
+Atreus or are interested in doing so.
+
+** Orestes
+
+A new [[https://www.flickr.com/photos/technomancy/14654421878][experimental build]] uses the [[http://pjrc.com/store/teensy31.html][Teensy 3]] microcontroller and
+ARM [[https://github.com/technomancy/orestes/tree/teensy3][Forth-based]] firmware, but this is not yet suitable for general-purpose use.