The Atreus is a mechanical keyboard designed primarily to match the
shape of human hands and to be as portable as possible. The case
-measures 25x11cm and lacks even a number row, relying heavily upon the
-fn key. There is no PCB in this design, requiring [[http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Hard-Wiring_How-To][a manual matrix
-wiring approach]]. However, given that there are only 4 rows and 11
-columns, the wiring process isn't as daunting as it could be.
+measures 26x12cm and lacks even a number row, relying heavily upon the
+=fn= key. There is a circuit board for this design, but it's also
+possible to [[http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Hard-Wiring_How-To][manually wire the matrix]].
I've seen a number of existing DIY 40% keyboard designs, but most of
them stagger the rows, which I find very annoying now that I've gotten
[[./atreus.jpg]]
+See [[./changelog.md][the changelog]] for the various revisions made to the design since
+its initial release.
+
** Kits
You can buy [[http://atreus.technomancy.us][Atreus kits]] that have all the parts you need along with
The numbers and most of the punctuation are on the fn layer with a
numpad-style arrangement under the right hand:
- : ! @ { } | || pgup 7 8 9 *
- : # $ ( ) ` || pgdn 4 5 6 +
- : % ^ [ ] ~ || \ 1 2 3 ?
- : L2 insert || . 0 =
+ : ! @ up { } || pgup 7 8 9 *
+ : # left down right $ || pgdn 4 5 6 +
+ : [ ] ( ) & || ` 1 2 3 \
+ : L2 insert super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn . 0 =
+
+The =L2= key switches it to the function layer, and tapping =L0= here
+brings it back to the first layer.
-The =L2= key switches it to the function layer, and tapping =fn= here
-brings it back.
+ : insert home ↑ end pgup || ↑ F7 F8 F9 F10
+ : del ← ↓ → pgdn || ↓ F4 F5 F6 F11
+ : reset || F1 F2 F3 F12
+ : super shift bksp ctrl || alt space L0
-The firmware project includes a number of other options, including
+The [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/tmk][firmware]] includes a number of other options, including
colemak, dvorak, and "software dvorak" which sends keycodes assuming
the OS will perform the translation into dvorak. Adding new layouts or
changing existing ones is easy.
This layout has five modifiers and 37 non-modifiers.
-I strongly prefer the feel and sound of tactile [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=651][Cherry MX blue]]
-switches for typing. However, I like having linear [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=103][Cherry MX black
+I strongly prefer the feel and sound of tactile [[https://deskthority.net/wiki/Matias_switch#Click][Matias Clicky]]
+switches for typing. However, I like having [[https://deskthority.net/wiki/Matias_switch#Linear][Matias Linear
switches]] switches on the modifier keys (ctrl, alt, super, shift, and
fn) because the tactile effect has no benefit for keys that are held
down, and giving a different response helps you learn the layout more
quickly.
+For users that need to operate in sound-sensitive environments like
+open offices or libraries,
+[[http://deskthority.net/wiki/Matias_switch#Quiet_click][Matias Quiet
+Click]] switches are a popular choice since they still offer tactility
+without the noise. Other users prefer switches in the
+[[http://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX][Cherry MX]] family, which use
+different keycaps and switch plates but still work fine.
+
*** Diodes
-In order to avoid ghosting, each switch needs a [[https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062587][1N4148 diode]].
+In order to avoid ghosting, each switch needs a diode. The [[https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062587][1N4148]] is a
+readily-available choice, but nearly any signal diode would work.
*** Microcontroller
-A [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]], [[http://www.pololu.com/product/3101][Pololu A-star micro]], or [[http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMicro][Arduino Micro]] is recommended.
+The circuit board design uses a [[http://www.pololu.com/product/3101][Pololu A-star micro]]. Hand-wired boards
+can also use a [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]] or [[http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMicro][Arduino Pro Micro]].
-Be sure to get one without headers so it will fit in between the
-bottom layer and the plate. USB micro is preferred over USB mini for
-this reason as well.
+Be sure to get a microcontroller without headers so it will fit in
+between the bottom layer and the plate. USB micro is preferred over
+USB mini for this reason as well.
*** Keycaps
-This [[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/product/dsa-pbt-blank-sets][DSA-shaped base set]] (spherical indentations on the key, same
-profile for each row) from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a
-few extras we won't use. There are two "deep dish" keys in that set
-which you can place under your index fingers on the home row to help
-guide your hands to the right spot without looking. However, you only
-get a single 1.5x keycap, and the middle two thumb keys both use them,
-so you might want to pick up an extra. You can buy a single DSA 1.5x
-keycap from [[http://www.keycapsdirect.com/key-capsinventory.php][Signature Plastics]] as well as keys with homing bumps if
-you prefer those to the deep dish keys for the keys under the index
-fingers. However, note that on a board as small as the Atreus, finding
-the home row is much easier than it is on a conventional keyboard.
+Caps for Matias switches are included in the official kits. Sculpted
+caps are also available [[http://matias.ca/order/#keycaps][from
+Matias]] or by harvesting from old Alps keyboards. It's recommended
+that you use unlabeled keys, because due to the different sizes and
+orientations of certain keys (backspace, shift, enter, etc) the labels
+will be incorrect if present.
+
+Cherry switches have more options. This
+[[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/products/full-keysets/dsa-blank-sets-1][DSA-shaped
+base set]] (spherical indentations on the key, same profile for each
+row) from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a few extras we won't
+use. There are two "deep dish" keys in that set which you can place
+under your index fingers on the home row to help guide your hands to
+the right spot without looking. However, you only get a single 1.5x
+keycap, and the middle two thumb keys both use them, so you might want
+to pick up an extra.
+
+** Circuit Board
+
+The =atreus.rkt= program calculates switch and diode positions based
+on row/column counts, spacing, and rotation factors, and emits a
+=atreus.kicad_pcb= file. The board outline and traces are done by hand
+and are stored in the =header.rktd= and =traces.rktd= files
+respectively. The =atreus.kicad_pcb= file can be imported into [[http://kicad-pcb.org][Kicad]]
+which can export Gerber files suitable for fabrication. A copy of the
+Kicad PCB file is included in the repository if you don't want to
+recompile it using Racket. Recompiling is only required if you want to
+make changes to the procedurally-generated portions of the board.
+
+Unfortunately most PCB fabricators require a minimum order of 10 or
+so, making this impractical for one-offs. The PCB is not required, so
+for one-off boards it's usually more sensible to stick with a [[http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf][hand-wired build]] instead.
** Case
-Layered laser-cut wood or acrylic. The original case (=case-mk-i.svg=)
-is slightly less wide and has a minor asymmetry with the screws on the
-bottom side. The [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic%3D54759.msg1304117#msg1304117][mark II case]] (in the =case= directory) is implemented
-programmatically in openscad, though dxf files are available as a
-convenience, which can be converted to SVG or EPS for laser cutting
-with Inkscape. Mark II features 8 screw holes and a kind of "stair
-step" design around the top and bottom of the key clusters; mark I is
+Layered laser-cut wood or acrylic. The [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic%3D54759.msg1304117#msg1304117][mark II case]] (EPS files in the
+=case/= directory) features 8 screw holes and a kind of "stair step"
+design around the top and bottom of the key clusters; mark I is
pictured below.
-[[./layers.jpg]]
+The =3mm-alps-all.eps= file contains the top plate, bottom plate, and
+switch plate for Matias switches. =3mm.eps= contains the files for
+Cherry boards. These pieces can all be cut on 3mm acrylic or wood. The
+=spacer.eps= file should be cut on something thicker; between 4.5mm
+and 6mm is recommended. The spacer needs to be at least as thick as
+the connector of the USB cable you're using.
-The bottom and top covers (black in the photo) should be cut in 3mm.
-The switch plate (frosted in the photo) can be cut in 4.5 or
-3mm. The spacer should be cut in 5 or 6mm; it needs to be at least as
-thick as the USB cable you connect to the microcontroller. I
-recommend using a USB cable with as thin a connector as you can
-find or sanding the connector down to the required thickness.
+There is also a programmatically-implemented version of the case
+written in OpenSCAD; it is more flexible (you can tweak the number of
+rows/cols, etc and recompile) but it doesn't match the canonical case
+exactly; in particular the screw holes are placed differently.
-TODO: describe finishing process for wood.
+The original case (=case-mk-i.svg=) design is also included; it is
+slightly less wide and has a minor asymmetry with the screws on the
+bottom side.
+
+On a 100W Epilog laser, the 3mm layers cut in about a minute and a
+half. I did a run with 6mm acrylic of the other layers which took
+nearly 6 minutes.
+
+Wood cases should be finished with sandpaper and finishing oil/wax or
+with [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/lacquer.pdf][lacquer]] which
+takes longer but feels nicer.
** Firmware
-The [[https://gitlab.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware/blob/master/readme.md][custom Atreus firmware]] is a small C project which
-implements matrix scanning and debouncing with user-customizeable
-layers and macro functions. Another option is the much more complex
-TMK firmware. My [[https://github.com/technomancy/tmk_keyboard/tree/atreus][fork of the tmk firmware]] has support for the Atreus
-layout. You should be able to change into the =keyboard/atreus=
-directory and run =make KEYMAP=atreus= (or whichever variant you want)
+The [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/tmk][TMK firmware]] is
+recommended. You should be able to change into the =keyboard/atreus=
+directory and run =make KEYMAP=qwerty= (or whichever variant you want)
to produce a qwerty =atreus.hex= file. You will probably want to
create your own layout once you've gotten a chance to try it and see
-what works for you.
-
-In either case you would use the =.hex= file you just produced with
-=avrdude= or the [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html][teensy loader]] to upload to the microcontroller.
+what works for you. See the readme for instructions of how to upload
+it to the keyboard's controller.
-Once the firmware is loaded and the keyboard is assembled, pressing
-the onboard reset button to update new versions of the firmware is
-pretty cumbersome; instead use the "reset" button on the layout, which
-has the same effect.
+There is also the older
+[[https://github.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware][atreus-firmware]
+custom codebase which works but has fewer features. It is recommended
+mostly for learning purposes since the code is much simpler and easier
+to understand than TMK.
** Bill of Materials
+Using Cherry switches is cheapest unless you can find cheap Alps-mount keycaps:
+
- 50 MX Blue switches: $29.00 (mechanicalkeyboards.com)
- 50 diodes: $3.45 (radio shack, should be able to buy in-person)
- Base blank DSA keycap set: $23.00 (signatureplastics.com)
- Teensy 2: $16, $3 shipping (pjrc.com)
-- Acrylic materials: ~$16, varies by source
-- Acrylic laser cutting: 7.5 minutes on a 100W Epilog laser; varies by source
-- USB Mini-B cable: $5, various sources
+- Case materials: ~$16, varies by source
+- Case laser cutting: 7.5 minutes on a 100W Epilog laser; varies by source
+- USB micro cable: $5, various sources
Recommended but optional:
-- 5 MX Black switches: $8.50 OR 5 MX Red switches: $10.00
+- 5 MX Red or MX Black switches: $8.50 - $10.00
- additional 1.5x DSA keycap: $1 plus $8 shipping
The base keycap set only has one 1.5x key, which is used for the inner
*** Other Tools
-You'll need a soldering iron, solder, a glue gun, a multimeter, hookup
-wire, and wire strippers. You'll also need eight M3 machine screws
-with nuts; the length of the screws depends on the thickness of the
-acrylic you use. You can add rubber feet to the bottom to prevent the
-board from sliding around when placed on a desk.
+You'll need a soldering iron, solder, and a wire cutter. A multimeter
+can come in handy for testing the connections but is optional. You'll
+also need eight M3 machine screws with nuts; the length of the screws
+depends on the thickness of the acrylic you use. You can add rubber
+feet to the bottom to prevent the board from sliding around when
+placed on a desk. You'll also need sandpaper and finishing oil for the
+wooden cases unless you have bought a kit.
+
+If you are building a hand-wired board you will also need a glue gun,
+hookup wire, and wire strippers.
** Assembly
-See the [[http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf][assembly instructions]] PDF
+See the [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf][assembly instructions]] PDF.
+
+Hand-wired boards will want the [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf][previous edition of the assembly instructions]].
+
+The LaTeX source to the assembly instructions is in the =assembly= directory.
** Inspiration
** Builds
-If you've built an Atreus, please let us know (pull request or
-otherwise) and get your name and link added here:
-
-- [[http://technomancy.us/173][Phil Hagelberg]]
-- [[http://blog.tarn-vedra.de/2014/04/reproducing-keyboard-science_1707.html][Moritz Ulrich]]
-- [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57007.0][Constantine]]
-- [[http://blog.mattgauger.com/blog/2014/08/19/atreus-my-custom-keyboard/][Matt Gauger]]
-- [[http://aaronash.com.au/posts/atreus-keyboard/][Aaron Ash]]
+If you've built an Atreus, please add your name to [[https://github.com/technomancy/atreus/wiki/BuildLogs][the build logs wiki]].
-There's also a [[http://librelist.com/browser/atreus/][mailing list]] for people who have built or ordered an
-Atreus or are interested in doing so. To join, simply email
-=atreus@librelist.com= with a subject of "join" and reply to the
-confirmation.
+There's also a [[https://atreus.technomancy.us/list][mailing list]] for people who have built or ordered an
+Atreus or are interested in doing so.
** Orestes
A new [[https://www.flickr.com/photos/technomancy/14654421878][experimental build]] uses the [[http://pjrc.com/store/teensy31.html][Teensy 3]] microcontroller and
-[[https://github.com/technomancy/orestes/tree/teensy3][Forth-based]] firmware, but this is not yet suitable for general-purpose use.
+ARM [[https://github.com/technomancy/orestes/tree/teensy3][Forth-based]] firmware, but this is not yet suitable for general-purpose use.
** License
-Copyright © 2014 Phil Hagelberg and contributors
+Copyright © 2014-2016 Phil Hagelberg and contributors
Released under the [[https://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html][GNU GPL version 3]]
projects / atreides.git / blobdiff