* Atreus Keyboard
-The [[http://ergodox.org][Ergodox]] keyboard is an absolutely fantastic design; I use it every
-day at my office. However, I like to work away from the office
-frequently, and I thought I might try my hand at designing something a
-little more portable. The great thing about assembling my Ergodox is
-that it taught be there's really nothing magical about it; it's just a
-piece of circuitry with a bunch of switches read by a microcontroller
-that speaks the USB HID interface.
-
-The Atreus is meant to be complementary to the Ergodox as something
-smaller, cheaper, and more travel-friendly. The case measures 25x11cm
-and lacks even a number row, relying heavily upon the fn key. There is
-no PCB in this design, requiring [[http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Hard-Wiring_How-To.html][a manual matrix wiring approach]].
-However, given that there are only 4 rows and 11 columns, this isn't
-as daunting as it could be.
+The Atreus is a mechanical keyboard designed primarily to match the
+shape of human hands and to be as portable as possible. The case
+measures 25x11cm and lacks even a number row, relying heavily upon the
+fn key. There is no PCB in this design, requiring [[http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Hard-Wiring_How-To][a manual matrix
+wiring approach]]. However, given that there are only 4 rows and 11
+columns, the wiring process isn't as daunting as it could be.
I've seen a number of existing DIY 40% keyboard designs, but most of
them stagger the rows, which I find very annoying now that I've gotten
-used to the columnar layout of the Ergodox. In addition, many of the
+used to the columnar layout of the [[http://ergodox.org][Ergodox]]. In addition, many of the
designs I've seen waste a lot of room on the space bar, failing to
take into account the fact that the thumb is the strongest and most
versatile of the fingers. This design avoids both these problems while
taking a more couch-friendly single-piece approach.
-[[atreus.jpg]]
+[[./atreus.jpg]]
+
+** Kits
+
+You can buy [[http://atreus.technomancy.us][Atreus kits]] that have all the parts you need along with
+detailed assembly instructions from http://atreus.technomancy.us. If
+you'd rather round up all the parts yourself, that's possible too
+since the design is completely open source; see the bill of materials
+below.
** Layout
Only a handful of punctuation marks (and no digits) are available
-unshifted, and all the modifiers are on the bottom row.
+unshifted, and all the modifiers are on the bottom row:
: q w e r t || y u i o p
: a s d f g || h j k l ;
: z x c v b || n m , . /
- : esc tab super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn enter pgup pgdn
+ : esc tab super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn - ' enter
-The numbers and most punctuation are on the fn layer:
+The numbers and most of the punctuation are on the fn layer with a
+numpad-style arrangement under the right hand:
- : 1 2 3 4 5 || 6 7 8 9 0
- : - + ( ) = || / [ ] { }
- : ! @ # $ % || ^ & * ~ ?
- : reset ` || _ | \
+ : ! @ { } | || pgup 7 8 9 *
+ : # $ ( ) ` || pgdn 4 5 6 +
+ : % ^ [ ] ~ || \ 1 2 3 ?
+ : L2 insert || . 0 =
-I type in Dvorak but prefer to do the remapping in software rather than
-hardware so I don't have to change layouts when I switch to my
-laptop's internal keyboard.
+The =L2= key switches it to the function layer, and tapping =fn= here
+brings it back.
+
+The firmware project includes a number of other options, including
+colemak, dvorak, and "software dvorak" which sends keycodes assuming
+the OS will perform the translation into dvorak. Adding new layouts or
+changing existing ones is easy.
** Parts
This layout has five modifiers and 37 non-modifiers.
I strongly prefer the feel and sound of tactile [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=651][Cherry MX blue]]
-switches for typing. However, I like having linear switches on the
-modifier keys (ctrl, alt, super, shift, and fn). [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=102][Cherry MX red
-switches]] are nice and light but are expensive and difficult to
-find. [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=103][Cherry MX black switches]] are cheaper and easier to source, but
-may be too heavy, especially for keys under pinky fingers.
-
-One trick is take the springs from some of your blue switches and
-trade them with the springs from your black switches. The blacks then
-become the equivalent of reds, and the blues become MX green switches,
-which are a heavier variant of blues. These are typically used for
-space bars on boards that otherwise use blues. They could be suitable
-for non-modifier thumb keys like backspace, space, and enter.
+switches for typing. However, I like having linear [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=103][Cherry MX black
+switches]] switches on the modifier keys (ctrl, alt, super, shift, and
+fn) because the tactile effect has no benefit for keys that are held
+down, and giving a different response helps you learn the layout more
+quickly.
*** Diodes
*** Microcontroller
-An [[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/programmers-development-systems/evaluation-boards-embedded-mcu-dsp/2621773?k=arduino%20micro][Arduino Micro]] or [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]] is recommended. Be sure to get one
-without headers so it will fit in between the bottom layer and the plate.
+A [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]], [[http://www.pololu.com/product/3101][Pololu A-star micro]], or [[http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMicro][Arduino Micro]] is recommended.
+
+Be sure to get one without headers so it will fit in between the
+bottom layer and the plate. USB micro is preferred over USB mini for
+this reason as well.
*** Keycaps
-This [[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/product/dsa-pbt-blank-sets][DSA-shaped base set]] from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a
-few extras we won't use. It claims on that page to contain only one
-deep key, but my shipment contained two, which I put under the index
-finger keys to help guide your hands without looking. However, it only
-contained a single 1.5x keycap, and the middle two thumb keys both use
-them, so you might want to pick up an extra.
+This [[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/product/dsa-pbt-blank-sets][DSA-shaped base set]] (spherical indentations on the key, same
+profile for each row) from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a
+few extras we won't use. There are two "deep dish" keys in that set
+which you can place under your index fingers on the home row to help
+guide your hands to the right spot without looking. However, you only
+get a single 1.5x keycap, and the middle two thumb keys both use them,
+so you might want to pick up an extra. You can buy a single DSA 1.5x
+keycap from [[http://www.keycapsdirect.com/key-capsinventory.php][Signature Plastics]] as well as keys with homing bumps if
+you prefer those to the deep dish keys for the keys under the index
+fingers. However, note that on a board as small as the Atreus, finding
+the home row is much easier than it is on a conventional keyboard.
** Case
-Layered laser-cut acrylic; see [[file:case.svg][case.svg]].
+Layered laser-cut wood or acrylic. The original case (=case-mk-i.svg=)
+is slightly less wide and has a minor asymmetry with the screws on the
+bottom side. The [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic%3D54759.msg1304117#msg1304117][mark II case]] (in the =case= directory) is implemented
+programmatically in openscad, though dxf files are available as a
+convenience, which can be converted to SVG or EPS for laser cutting
+with Inkscape. Mark II features 8 screw holes and a kind of "stair
+step" design around the top and bottom of the key clusters; mark I is
+pictured below.
-[[layers.jpg][layers.jpg]]
+[[./layers.jpg]]
-The first two shapes in the case file are the top and bottom covers;
-these should be cut on 3mm acrylic (black in the photo). The third is
-the spacer that goes under the fourth, which is the plate on which the
-switches are mounted. These should be cut in 6mm, especially the
-spacer, which needs to be at least as thick as the micro USB cable you
-connect to the microcontroller. The switch plate could be thinner.
+The bottom and top covers (black in the photo) should be cut in 3mm.
+The switch plate (frosted in the photo) can be cut in 4.5 or
+3mm. The spacer should be cut in 5 or 6mm; it needs to be at least as
+thick as the USB cable you connect to the microcontroller. I
+recommend using a USB cable with as thin a connector as you can
+find or sanding the connector down to the required thickness.
-On a 100W Epilog laser, the 3mm layers cut in about a minute and a
-half. I did a run with 6mm acrylic of the other layers which took
-nearly 6 minutes.
-
-One thing to watch for is that the screw holes unfortunately are not
-symmetrical. So before the switches get mounted, it's important to
-ensure that the switch plate is right-side-up.
+TODO: describe finishing process for wood.
** Firmware
-My [[https://github.com/technomancy/tmk_keyboard/tree/atreus][fork of the tmk firmware]] has support for the Atreus
-layout. Currently only supports software-dvorak--the default layer is
-all qwerty, but the punctuation keys send keycodes assuming that the
-qwerty->dvorak transformation will be applied to them, so they don't
-make sense otherwise.
+The [[https://gitlab.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware/blob/master/readme.md][custom Atreus firmware]] is a small C project which
+implements matrix scanning and debouncing with user-customizeable
+layers and macro functions. Another option is the much more complex
+TMK firmware. My [[https://github.com/technomancy/tmk_keyboard/tree/atreus][fork of the tmk firmware]] has support for the Atreus
+layout. You should be able to change into the =keyboard/atreus=
+directory and run =make KEYMAP=atreus= (or whichever variant you want)
+to produce a qwerty =atreus.hex= file. You will probably want to
+create your own layout once you've gotten a chance to try it and see
+what works for you.
+
+In either case you would use the =.hex= file you just produced with
+=avrdude= or the [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html][teensy loader]] to upload to the microcontroller.
-You should be able to cd into the `keyboard/atreus` directory and run
-`make KEYMAP=atreus` (or whichever variant you want) to produce a
-`atreus.hex` file. Use this with the `teensy` or Arduino tools to
-upload to the microcontroller. The "reset" button on the lower left
-will ready the Teensy for an upload so you don't have to open the case
-to hit the onboard reset button.
+Once the firmware is loaded and the keyboard is assembled, pressing
+the onboard reset button to update new versions of the firmware is
+pretty cumbersome; instead use the "reset" button on the layout, which
+has the same effect.
-** Recommended Bill of Materials
+** Bill of Materials
- 50 MX Blue switches: $29.00 (mechanicalkeyboards.com)
- 50 diodes: $3.45 (radio shack, should be able to buy in-person)
-- Base keycap set: $18.00 (signatureplastics.com)
-- Teensy 2: $16 (pjrc.com or mechanicalkeyboards.com)
-- Acrylic materials: $11
-- Acrylic laser cutting: 7.5 at $3/min (varies by thickness of acrylic)
+- Base blank DSA keycap set: $23.00 (signatureplastics.com)
+- Teensy 2: $16, $3 shipping (pjrc.com)
+- Acrylic materials: ~$16, varies by source
+- Acrylic laser cutting: 7.5 minutes on a 100W Epilog laser; varies by source
+- USB Mini-B cable: $5, various sources
+
+Recommended but optional:
+
+- 5 MX Black switches: $8.50 OR 5 MX Red switches: $10.00
+- additional 1.5x DSA keycap: $1 plus $8 shipping
+
+The base keycap set only has one 1.5x key, which is used for the inner
+thumb keys. You can use a 1x key for one of them, but it looks kind of
+tacky, so I recommend getting a second 1.5x keycap separately.
+
+*** Other Tools
+
+You'll need a soldering iron, solder, a glue gun, a multimeter, hookup
+wire, and wire strippers. You'll also need eight M3 machine screws
+with nuts; the length of the screws depends on the thickness of the
+acrylic you use. You can add rubber feet to the bottom to prevent the
+board from sliding around when placed on a desk.
+
+** Assembly
+
+See the [[http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf][assembly instructions]] PDF
-- 5 MX Black switches: $8.50 (optional)
-- 5 MX Red switches: $10.00 (optional)
+** Inspiration
-=(+ 29 3.45 18 16 11 (* 3 7.5))= $99.95 plus tax/shipping
+These fine projects all provided inspiration for various aspects of
+the Atreus, as well as the folks on the =#geekhack= freenode channel.
-- mechanicalkeyboards.com: free shipping in the US
-- Signature Plastics (keycaps) shipping: $8.00
-- PJRC (teensy) shipping: $3.03
+- [[http://ergodox.org][Ergodox]]
+- [[http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/onehand-20-keyboard-t6617.html][OneHand]]
+- [[http://blog.fsck.com/2013/12/better-and-better-keyboards.html][keyboard.io]]
+- [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48718][ErgoT]]
-** Other Tools:
+** Builds
-You'll need a soldering iron, solder, a multimeter, wire, wire
-strippers, and a USB micro cable. You'll also need seven M3 machine
-screws with nuts; the length of the screws depends on the thickness of
-the acrylic you use.
+If you've built an Atreus, please let us know (pull request or
+otherwise) and get your name and link added here:
-** Cost-saving Options
+- [[http://technomancy.us/173][Phil Hagelberg]]
+- [[http://blog.tarn-vedra.de/2014/04/reproducing-keyboard-science_1707.html][Moritz Ulrich]]
+- [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57007.0][Constantine]]
+- [[http://blog.mattgauger.com/blog/2014/08/19/atreus-my-custom-keyboard/][Matt Gauger]]
+- [[http://aaronash.com.au/posts/atreus-keyboard/][Aaron Ash]]
-There are a few ways to lower the cost further. Using [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=482][Matias]] key
-switches could save you a fair bit if you go in on a 90-pack with
-someone else, but they're a little harder to find keycaps for; the MX
-caps won't work on them. Using wood for the case will reduce both the
-materials cost as well as the amount of time needed to cut the case.
+There's also a [[http://librelist.com/browser/atreus/][mailing list]] for people who have built or ordered an
+Atreus or are interested in doing so. To join, simply email
+=atreus@librelist.com= with a subject of "join" and reply to the
+confirmation.
-Replacing the colored acrylic with transparent might also save a few
-dollars. You could also use thinner acrylic for the switch plate too;
-I cut mine in 4.5mm. A thinner spacer is inadvisable; even with 6mm
-it's pretty tight.
+** Orestes
-Another common trick is scavenging keycaps and switches from used
-keyboards; something with Cherry or Alps switches should work. This
-can be time-consuming though.
+A new [[https://www.flickr.com/photos/technomancy/14654421878][experimental build]] uses the [[http://pjrc.com/store/teensy31.html][Teensy 3]] microcontroller and
+[[https://github.com/technomancy/orestes/tree/teensy3][Forth-based]] firmware, but this is not yet suitable for general-purpose use.
** License
-Copyright © 2014 Phil Hagelberg
+Copyright © 2014 Phil Hagelberg and contributors
Released under the [[https://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html][GNU GPL version 3]]
projects / atreides.git / blobdiff