* Atreus Keyboard
-The [[http://ergodox.org][Ergodox]] keyboard is an absolutely fantastic design; I use it every
-day at my office. However, I like to work away from the office
-frequently, and I thought I might try my hand at designing something a
-little more portable. The great thing about assembling my Ergodox is
-that it taught be there's really nothing magical about it; it's just a
-piece of circuitry with a bunch of switches read by a microcontroller
-that speaks the USB HID interface.
-
-The Atreus is meant to be complementary to the Ergodox as something
-smaller, cheaper, and more travel-friendly. The case measures 25x11cm
-and lacks even a number row, relying heavily upon the fn key. There is
-no PCB in this design, requiring [[http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Hard-Wiring_How-To][a manual matrix wiring approach]].
-However, given that there are only 4 rows and 11 columns, this isn't
-as daunting as it could be.
+The Atreus is a mechanical keyboard designed primarily to match the
+shape of human hands and to be as portable as possible. The case
+measures 25x11cm and lacks even a number row, relying heavily upon the
+fn key. There is no PCB in this design, requiring [[http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Hard-Wiring_How-To][a manual matrix
+wiring approach]]. However, given that there are only 4 rows and 11
+columns, the wiring process isn't as daunting as it could be.
I've seen a number of existing DIY 40% keyboard designs, but most of
them stagger the rows, which I find very annoying now that I've gotten
-used to the columnar layout of the Ergodox. In addition, many of the
+used to the columnar layout of the [[http://ergodox.org][Ergodox]]. In addition, many of the
designs I've seen waste a lot of room on the space bar, failing to
take into account the fact that the thumb is the strongest and most
-versatile of the fingers. This design avoids both these problems.
+versatile of the fingers. This design avoids both these problems while
+taking a more couch-friendly single-piece approach.
-[[atreus.jpg]]
+[[./atreus.jpg]]
+
+** Kits
+
+You can buy [[http://atreus.technomancy.us][Atreus kits]] that have all the parts you need along with
+detailed assembly instructions from http://atreus.technomancy.us. If
+you'd rather round up all the parts yourself, that's possible too
+since the design is completely open source; see the bill of materials
+below.
** Layout
-Only a handful of punctuation marks (and no digits) available
-unshifted, and all the modifiers are on the bottom row.
+Only a handful of punctuation marks (and no digits) are available
+unshifted, and all the modifiers are on the bottom row:
: q w e r t || y u i o p
: a s d f g || h j k l ;
: z x c v b || n m , . /
- : esc tab fn shift bksp ctrl || alt space enter super pgup pgdn
+ : esc tab super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn - ' enter
+
+The numbers and most of the punctuation are on the fn layer with a
+numpad-style arrangement under the right hand:
-The numbers and most punctuation are on the fn layer:
+ : ! @ { } | || pgup 7 8 9 *
+ : # $ ( ) ` || pgdn 4 5 6 +
+ : % ^ [ ] ~ || \ 1 2 3 ?
+ : L2 insert || . 0 =
- : 1 2 3 4 5 || 6 7 8 9 0
- : - + ( ) = || / [ ] { }
- : ! @ # $ % || ^ & * ? ~
- : || ` _ \
+The =L2= key switches it to the function layer, and tapping =fn= here
+brings it back.
-I type in Dvorak but prefer to do the remapping in software rather than
-hardware so I don't have to change layouts when I switch to my
-laptop's internal keyboard.
+The firmware project includes a number of other options, including
+colemak, dvorak, and "software dvorak" which sends keycodes assuming
+the OS will perform the translation into dvorak. Adding new layouts or
+changing existing ones is easy.
** Parts
This layout has five modifiers and 37 non-modifiers.
-I strongly prefer the feel and sound of tactile [[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MX1A-E1NW/CH197-ND/20180][Cherry MX blue]]
-switches for typing. However, I like having linear switches on the
-modifier keys (ctrl, alt, super, shift, and fn). [[http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts/cherry-mx-red-keyswitch-mx1a-l1nn-linear.html][Cherry MX red
-switches]] are nice and light but are expensive and difficult to
-find. [[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MX1A-11NW/CH160-ND/91134][Cherry MX black switches]] are cheaper and easier to source, but
-may be too heavy, especially for keys under pinky fingers.
-
-One trick is take the springs from some of your blue switches and
-trade them with the springs from your black switches. The blacks then
-become the equivalent of reds, and the blues become MX green switches,
-which are a heavier variant of blues. These are typically used for
-space bars on boards that otherwise use blues. They could be suitable
-for non-modifier thumb keys like backspace, space, and enter.
+I strongly prefer the feel and sound of tactile [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=651][Cherry MX blue]]
+switches for typing. However, I like having linear [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=103][Cherry MX black
+switches]] switches on the modifier keys (ctrl, alt, super, shift, and
+fn) because the tactile effect has no benefit for keys that are held
+down, and giving a different response helps you learn the layout more
+quickly.
*** Diodes
-In order to avoid ghosting, each switch needs a [[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1N4148TR/1N4148FSTR-ND/458811][diode]].
+In order to avoid ghosting, each switch needs a [[https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062587][1N4148 diode]].
*** Microcontroller
-An [[http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/programmers-development-systems/evaluation-boards-embedded-mcu-dsp/2621773?k=arduino%20micro][Arduino Micro]] or [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]] is recommended. Be sure to get one
-without headers so it will fit in between the bottom layer and the plate.
-
-*** Keycaps
+A [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]], [[http://www.pololu.com/product/3101][Pololu A-star micro]], or [[http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMicro][Arduino Micro]] is recommended.
-This [[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/product/dsa-pbt-blank-sets][DSA-shaped base set]] from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a
-few extras we won't use. It claims on that page to contain only one
-deep key, but my shipment contained two, which I put under the index
-finger keys to help guide your hands without looking.
+Be sure to get one without headers so it will fit in between the
+bottom layer and the plate. USB micro is preferred over USB mini for
+this reason as well.
-*** Screws
+*** Keycaps
-Seven M3 machine screws and nuts hold the whole thing together. The
-length of the screws depends on the thickness of the materials you use
-for the case.
+This [[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/product/dsa-pbt-blank-sets][DSA-shaped base set]] (spherical indentations on the key, same
+profile for each row) from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a
+few extras we won't use. There are two "deep dish" keys in that set
+which you can place under your index fingers on the home row to help
+guide your hands to the right spot without looking. However, you only
+get a single 1.5x keycap, and the middle two thumb keys both use them,
+so you might want to pick up an extra. You can buy a single DSA 1.5x
+keycap from [[http://www.keycapsdirect.com/key-capsinventory.php][Signature Plastics]] as well as keys with homing bumps if
+you prefer those to the deep dish keys for the keys under the index
+fingers. However, note that on a board as small as the Atreus, finding
+the home row is much easier than it is on a conventional keyboard.
** Case
-Layered laser-cut acrylic; see [[file:case.svg][case.svg]].
+Layered laser-cut wood or acrylic. The original case (=case-mk-i.svg=)
+is slightly less wide and has a minor asymmetry with the screws on the
+bottom side. The [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic%3D54759.msg1304117#msg1304117][mark II case]] (in the =case= directory) is implemented
+programmatically in openscad, though dxf files are available as a
+convenience, which can be converted to SVG or EPS for laser cutting
+with Inkscape. Mark II features 8 screw holes and a kind of "stair
+step" design around the top and bottom of the key clusters; mark I is
+pictured below.
-[[layers.jpg][layers.jpg]]
+[[./layers.jpg]]
-The first two shapes in the case file are the top and bottom covers;
-these should be cut on 3mm acrylic (black in the photo). The third is
-the spacer that goes under the fourth, which is the plate on which the
-switches are mounted. These should be cut in 6mm, especially the
-spacer, which needs to be at least as thick as the micro USB cable you
-connect to the microcontroller.
+The bottom and top covers (black in the photo) should be cut in 3mm.
+The switch plate (frosted in the photo) can be cut in 4.5 or
+3mm. The spacer should be cut in 5 or 6mm; it needs to be at least as
+thick as the USB cable you connect to the microcontroller. I
+recommend using a USB cable with as thin a connector as you can
+find or sanding the connector down to the required thickness.
-On a 100W Epilog laser, the 3mm layers cut in about a minute and a
-half. I did a run with 6mm acrylic of the other layers which took
-nearly 6 minutes.
+TODO: describe finishing process for wood.
** Firmware
-My [[https://github.com/technomancy/tmk_keyboard/tree/atreus][fork of the tmk firmware]] has support for the Atreus
-layout. Currently only supports software-dvorak--the default layer is
-all qwerty, but the punctuation keys send keycodes assuming that the
-qwerty->dvorak transformation will be applied to them, so they don't
-make sense otherwise.
+The [[https://gitlab.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware/blob/master/readme.md][custom Atreus firmware]] is a small C project which
+implements matrix scanning and debouncing with user-customizeable
+layers and macro functions. Another option is the much more complex
+TMK firmware. My [[https://github.com/technomancy/tmk_keyboard/tree/atreus][fork of the tmk firmware]] has support for the Atreus
+layout. You should be able to change into the =keyboard/atreus=
+directory and run =make KEYMAP=atreus= (or whichever variant you want)
+to produce a qwerty =atreus.hex= file. You will probably want to
+create your own layout once you've gotten a chance to try it and see
+what works for you.
+
+In either case you would use the =.hex= file you just produced with
+=avrdude= or the [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html][teensy loader]] to upload to the microcontroller.
+
+Once the firmware is loaded and the keyboard is assembled, pressing
+the onboard reset button to update new versions of the firmware is
+pretty cumbersome; instead use the "reset" button on the layout, which
+has the same effect.
+
+** Bill of Materials
+
+- 50 MX Blue switches: $29.00 (mechanicalkeyboards.com)
+- 50 diodes: $3.45 (radio shack, should be able to buy in-person)
+- Base blank DSA keycap set: $23.00 (signatureplastics.com)
+- Teensy 2: $16, $3 shipping (pjrc.com)
+- Acrylic materials: ~$16, varies by source
+- Acrylic laser cutting: 7.5 minutes on a 100W Epilog laser; varies by source
+- USB Mini-B cable: $5, various sources
+
+Recommended but optional:
+
+- 5 MX Black switches: $8.50 OR 5 MX Red switches: $10.00
+- additional 1.5x DSA keycap: $1 plus $8 shipping
+
+The base keycap set only has one 1.5x key, which is used for the inner
+thumb keys. You can use a 1x key for one of them, but it looks kind of
+tacky, so I recommend getting a second 1.5x keycap separately.
+
+*** Other Tools
+
+You'll need a soldering iron, solder, a glue gun, a multimeter, hookup
+wire, and wire strippers. You'll also need eight M3 machine screws
+with nuts; the length of the screws depends on the thickness of the
+acrylic you use. You can add rubber feet to the bottom to prevent the
+board from sliding around when placed on a desk.
+
+** Assembly
+
+See the [[http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf][assembly instructions]] PDF
+
+** Inspiration
+
+These fine projects all provided inspiration for various aspects of
+the Atreus, as well as the folks on the =#geekhack= freenode channel.
-** Recommended Bill of Materials
+- [[http://ergodox.org][Ergodox]]
+- [[http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/onehand-20-keyboard-t6617.html][OneHand]]
+- [[http://blog.fsck.com/2013/12/better-and-better-keyboards.html][keyboard.io]]
+- [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48718][ErgoT]]
-- 37 MX Blues @ $1.00
-- 5 MX Blacks @ 0.80
-- 42 diodes @ $0.052
-- Base keycap set: $18.00
-- Teensy 2: $16 OR Arduino Micro: $25
-- USB Mini cable: $1.94
-- Acrylic materials: $11
-- Acrylic laser cutting: 6 at $3/min (varies by thickness of acrylic)
+** Builds
-=(+ 37 (* 5 0.8) (* 42 0.052) 18 16 1.94 11 (* 3 7.5))= -> $112.62 plus tax/shipping
+If you've built an Atreus, please let us know (pull request or
+otherwise) and get your name and link added here:
-- Digikey (switches, diodes, arduino?) US shipping: $5.32
-- Signature Plastics (keycaps) shipping: $8.00
-- PJRC (teensy) shipping: $3.03
+- [[http://technomancy.us/173][Phil Hagelberg]]
+- [[http://blog.tarn-vedra.de/2014/04/reproducing-keyboard-science_1707.html][Moritz Ulrich]]
+- [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57007.0][Constantine]]
+- [[http://blog.mattgauger.com/blog/2014/08/19/atreus-my-custom-keyboard/][Matt Gauger]]
+- [[http://aaronash.com.au/posts/atreus-keyboard/][Aaron Ash]]
-** Cost-saving Options
+There's also a [[http://librelist.com/browser/atreus/][mailing list]] for people who have built or ordered an
+Atreus or are interested in doing so. To join, simply email
+=atreus@librelist.com= with a subject of "join" and reply to the
+confirmation.
-There are a few ways to get the cost under $100. Using all black
-switches brings it down, but I strongly recommend against this unless
-you're already familiar with the feel of the various Cherry
-switches. Using wood for the case will reduce both the materials cost
-as well as the amount of time needed to cut the case.
+** Orestes
-Replacing the colored acrylic with transparent might also save a few
-dollars. You could also use thinner acrylic for the switch plate too;
-I cut mine in 4.5mm. A thinner spacer is inadvisable; even with 6mm
-it's pretty tight.
+A new [[https://www.flickr.com/photos/technomancy/14654421878][experimental build]] uses the [[http://pjrc.com/store/teensy31.html][Teensy 3]] microcontroller and
+[[https://github.com/technomancy/orestes/tree/teensy3][Forth-based]] firmware, but this is not yet suitable for general-purpose use.
** License
-Copyright © 2014 Phil Hagelberg
+Copyright © 2014 Phil Hagelberg and contributors
Released under the [[https://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html][GNU GPL version 3]]
projects / atreides.git / blobdiff