* Atreus Keyboard
-The [[http://ergodox.org][Ergodox]] keyboard is an absolutely fantastic design; I use it every
-day at my office. However, I like to work away from the office
-frequently, and I thought I might try my hand at designing something a
-little more portable. The great thing about assembling my Ergodox is
-that it taught be there's really nothing magical about it; it's just a
-piece of circuitry with a bunch of switches read by a microcontroller
-that speaks the USB HID interface.
-
-The Atreus is meant to be complementary to the Ergodox as something
-smaller, cheaper, and more travel-friendly. The case measures 25x11cm
-and lacks even a number row, relying heavily upon the fn key. There is
-no PCB in this design, requiring [[http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Hard-Wiring_How-To.html][a manual matrix wiring approach]].
-However, given that there are only 4 rows and 11 columns, this isn't
-as daunting as it could be. It also allows for quicker iteration on
-design changes since alterations only require cutting a new case.
+The Atreus is a mechanical keyboard designed primarily to match the
+shape of human hands and to be as portable as possible. The case
+measures 26x12cm and lacks even a number row, relying heavily upon the
+=fn= key. There is a circuit board for this design, but it's also
+possible to [[http://wiki.geekhack.org/index.php?title=Hard-Wiring_How-To][manually wire the matrix]].
I've seen a number of existing DIY 40% keyboard designs, but most of
them stagger the rows, which I find very annoying now that I've gotten
-used to the columnar layout of the Ergodox. In addition, many of the
+used to the columnar layout of the [[http://ergodox.org][Ergodox]]. In addition, many of the
designs I've seen waste a lot of room on the space bar, failing to
take into account the fact that the thumb is the strongest and most
-versatile of the fingers. This design avoids both these problems.
+versatile of the fingers. This design avoids both these problems while
+taking a more couch-friendly single-piece approach.
-[[atreus.jpg]]
+[[./atreus.jpg]]
+
+See [[./changelog.md][the changelog]] for the various revisions made to the design since
+its initial release.
+
+** Kits
+
+You can buy [[http://atreus.technomancy.us][Atreus kits]] that have all the parts you need along with
+detailed assembly instructions from http://atreus.technomancy.us. If
+you'd rather round up all the parts yourself, that's possible too
+since the design is completely open source; see the bill of materials
+below.
** Layout
-Only a handful of punctuation marks (and no digits) available
-unshifted, and all the modifiers are on the bottom row.
+Only a handful of punctuation marks (and no digits) are available
+unshifted, and all the modifiers are on the bottom row:
: q w e r t || y u i o p
: a s d f g || h j k l ;
: z x c v b || n m , . /
- : shift esc tab fn bksp ctrl || alt space enter pgup pgdn super
+ : esc tab super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn - ' enter
+
+The numbers and most of the punctuation are on the fn layer with a
+numpad-style arrangement under the right hand:
-The numbers and most punctuation are on the fn layer:
+ : ! @ { } | || pgup 7 8 9 *
+ : # $ ( ) ` || pgdn 4 5 6 +
+ : % ^ [ ] ~ || \ 1 2 3 ?
+ : L2 insert super shift bksp ctrl || alt space fn . 0 =
- : 1 2 3 4 5 || 6 7 8 9 0
- : - + ( ) = || / [ ] { }
- : ! @ # $ % || ^ & * ? ~
- : || ` _ \
+The =L2= key switches it to the function layer, and tapping =L0= here
+brings it back to the first layer.
-I type in Dvorak but prefer to do the remapping in software rather than
-hardware so I don't have to change layouts when I switch to my
-laptop's internal keyboard.
+ : home ↑ end insert pgup || ↑ F7 F8 F9 F10
+ : ← ↓ → del pgdn || ↓ F4 F5 F6 F11
+ : || F1 F2 F3 F12
+ : super shift bksp ctrl || alt space L0 reset
+
+The [[https://github.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware][firmware project]] includes a number of other options, including
+colemak, dvorak, and "software dvorak" which sends keycodes assuming
+the OS will perform the translation into dvorak. Adding new layouts or
+changing existing ones is easy.
** Parts
This layout has five modifiers and 37 non-modifiers.
-I strongly prefer the feel and sound of tactile [[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MX1A-E1NW/CH197-ND/20180][Cherry MX blue]]
-switches for typing. However, I like having linear switches on the
-modifier keys (ctrl, alt, super, shift, and fn). [[http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts/cherry-mx-red-keyswitch-mx1a-l1nn-linear.html][Cherry MX red
-switches]] are nice and light but are expensive and difficult to
-find. [[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MX1A-11NW/CH160-ND/91134][Cherry MX black switches]] are cheaper and easier to source, but
-may be too heavy, especially for keys under pinky fingers.
-
-One trick is take the springs from some of your blue switches and
-trade them with the springs from your black switches. The blacks then
-become the equivalent of reds, and the blues become MX green switches,
-which are a heavier variant of blues. These are typically used for
-space bars on boards that otherwise use blues. They could be suitable
-for non-modifier thumb keys.
-
-**** Recommended switch types for bottom row
+I strongly prefer the feel and sound of tactile [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=651][Cherry MX blue]]
+switches for typing. However, I like having linear [[http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=103][Cherry MX black
+switches]] switches on the modifier keys (ctrl, alt, super, shift, and
+fn) because the tactile effect has no benefit for keys that are held
+down, and giving a different response helps you learn the layout more
+quickly.
-- red: shift, super
-- black: fn, ctrl, alt
-- green: space, backspace, enter?
-
-If you don't bother with the spring replacement step mentioned above,
-use blues instead of greens and blacks instead of reds. Or just use
-whatever switches you want; it's your board!
+For users that need to operate in sound-sensitive environments like
+open offices or libraries, [[http://deskthority.net/wiki/Cherry_MX_Clear][Cherry MX Clear]] switches are a popular
+choice since they still offer tactility withut the noise.
*** Diodes
-In order to avoid ghosting, each switch needs a [[http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/1N4148TR/1N4148FSTR-ND/458811][diode]].
+In order to avoid ghosting, each switch needs a diode. The [[https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062587][1N4148]] is a
+readily-available choice, but nearly any signal diode would work.
*** Microcontroller
-An [[https://www.adafruit.com/products/1315][Arduino Micro]] or [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]] is recommended.
+The circuit board design uses a [[http://www.pololu.com/product/3101][Pololu A-star micro]]. Hand-wired boards
+can also use a [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/index.html][Teensy 2]] or [[http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMicro][Arduino Pro Micro]].
-*** Keycaps
+Be sure to get a microcontroller without headers so it will fit in
+between the bottom layer and the plate. USB micro is preferred over
+USB mini for this reason as well.
-This [[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/product/dsa-pbt-blank-sets][DSA-shaped base set]] has 52 1x keys plus a few extras we won't use.
+*** Keycaps
-*** Screws
+This [[http://keyshop.pimpmykeyboard.com/products/full-keysets/dsa-blank-sets-1][DSA-shaped base set]] (spherical indentations on the key, same
+profile for each row) from Signature Plastics has 52 1x keys plus a
+few extras we won't use. There are two "deep dish" keys in that set
+which you can place under your index fingers on the home row to help
+guide your hands to the right spot without looking. However, you only
+get a single 1.5x keycap, and the middle two thumb keys both use them,
+so you might want to pick up an extra.
-Seven M3 machine screws hold the whole thing together. The length of
-the screws depends on the thickness of the materials you use for the
-case.
+Many keycap sets (not the one linked above) are "sculpted", meaning
+that keys that go in different rows have a different shape. While you
+can use these for an Atreus, it's unlikely you'll find a set with the
+correct number for each row, so it's more wasteful.
** Case
-Layered laser-cut acrylic; see [[file:case.svg][case.svg]].
+Layered laser-cut wood or acrylic. The original case (=case-mk-i.svg=)
+is slightly less wide and has a minor asymmetry with the screws on the
+bottom side. The [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic%3D54759.msg1304117#msg1304117][mark II case]] (in the =case= directory) is implemented
+programmatically in openscad, though dxf files are available as a
+convenience, which can be converted to SVG or EPS for laser cutting
+with Inkscape. Mark II features 8 screw holes and a kind of "stair
+step" design around the top and bottom of the key clusters; mark I is
+pictured below.
-[[layers.jpg][layers.jpg]]
+[[./layers.jpg]]
-The first two shapes in the case file are the top and bottom covers;
-these should be cut on 3mm acrylic (black in the photo). The third is
-the spacer that goes under the fourth, which is the plate on which the
-switches are mounted. These should be cut in 4.5mm.
-
-On a 100W Epilog laser, the 3mm layers cut in about a minute and a
-half. I did a run with 6mm acrylic of the other layers which took
-nearly 6 minutes, but with the recommended 4.5mm thickness it should
-be closer to four or five.
+The bottom and top covers (black in the photo) should be cut in 3mm.
+The switch plate (frosted in the photo) can be cut in 4.5 or
+3mm. The spacer should be cut in 5mm; it needs to be at least as
+thick as the USB cable you connect to the microcontroller. I
+recommend using a USB cable with as thin a connector as you can
+find or sanding the connector down to the required thickness.
** Firmware
-My [[https://github.com/technomancy/tmk_keyboard/tree/atreus][fork of the tmk firmware]] has support for the Atreus
-layout. Currently only supports software-dvorak--the default layer is
-all qwerty, but the punctuation keys send keycodes assuming that the
-qwerty->dvorak transformation will be applied to them, so they don't
-make sense otherwise.
+The [[https://github.com/technomancy/atreus-firmware/][custom Atreus firmware]] is a small C project which
+implements matrix scanning and debouncing with user-customizeable
+layers and macro functions. Another option is the much more complex
+TMK firmware. My [[https://github.com/technomancy/tmk_keyboard/tree/atreus][fork of the tmk firmware]] has support for the Atreus
+layout. You should be able to change into the =keyboard/atreus=
+directory and run =make KEYMAP=atreus= (or whichever variant you want)
+to produce a qwerty =atreus.hex= file. You will probably want to
+create your own layout once you've gotten a chance to try it and see
+what works for you.
+
+In either case you would use the =.hex= file you just produced with
+=avrdude= or the [[http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/loader.html][teensy loader]] to upload to the microcontroller. =make
+upload= should do what you need.
+
+Once the firmware is loaded and the keyboard is assembled, activating
+the hardware reset to upload new versions of the firmware is pretty
+cumbersome; instead use the "reset" button on the layout, which has
+the same effect.
+
+** Bill of Materials
+
+- 50 MX Blue switches: $29.00 (mechanicalkeyboards.com)
+- 50 diodes: $3.45 (radio shack, should be able to buy in-person)
+- Base blank DSA keycap set: $23.00 (signatureplastics.com)
+- Teensy 2: $16, $3 shipping (pjrc.com)
+- Case materials: ~$16, varies by source
+- Case laser cutting: 7.5 minutes on a 100W Epilog laser; varies by source
+- USB micro cable: $5, various sources
+
+Recommended but optional:
+
+- 5 MX Red or MX Black switches: $8.50 - $10.00
+- additional 1.5x DSA keycap: $1 plus $8 shipping
+
+The base keycap set only has one 1.5x key, which is used for the inner
+thumb keys. You can use a 1x key for one of them, but it looks kind of
+tacky, so I recommend getting a second 1.5x keycap separately.
+
+*** Other Tools
+
+You'll need a soldering iron, solder, and a wire cutter. A multimeter
+can come in handy for testing the connections but is optional. You'll
+also need eight M3 machine screws with nuts; the length of the screws
+depends on the thickness of the acrylic you use. You can add rubber
+feet to the bottom to prevent the board from sliding around when
+placed on a desk. You'll also need sandpaper and finishing oil for the
+wooden cases unless you have bought a kit.
+
+If you are building a hand-wired board you will also need a glue gun,
+hookup wire, and wire strippers.
+
+** Assembly
+
+See the [[http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf][assembly instructions]] PDF.
+
+Hand-wired boards will want the [[http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf][previous edition of the assembly instructions]].
+
+** Inspiration
+
+These fine projects all provided inspiration for various aspects of
+the Atreus, as well as the folks on the =#geekhack= freenode channel.
-** Recommended Bill of Materials
+- [[http://ergodox.org][Ergodox]]
+- [[http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/onehand-20-keyboard-t6617.html][OneHand]]
+- [[http://blog.fsck.com/2013/12/better-and-better-keyboards.html][keyboard.io]]
+- [[http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48718][ErgoT]]
-- 37 MX Blues @ $1.00
-- 5 MX Blacks @ 0.80
-- 42 diodes @ $0.052
-- Base keycap set: $18.00
-- Teensy 2: $16
-- Acrylic materials: $11
-- Acrylic laser cutting: 6 at $3/min (varies by thickness of acrylic)
+** Builds
-=(+ 37 (* 5 0.8) (* 42 0.052) 18 16 11 (* 3 6))= -> 106.18 plus tax/shipping
+If you've built an Atreus, please add your name to [[https://github.com/technomancy/atreus/wiki/BuildLogs][the build logs wiki]].
-- Digikey (switches and diodes) US shipping: $5.32
-- Signature Plastics (keycaps) shipping: $8.00
-- PJRC (teensy) shipping: $3.03
+There's also a [[http://librelist.com/browser/atreus/][mailing list]] for people who have built or ordered an
+Atreus or are interested in doing so. To join, simply email
+=atreus@librelist.com= with a subject of "join" and reply to the
+confirmation.
-** Cost-saving Options
+** Orestes
-There are a few ways to get the cost under $100. Using all black
-switches brings the total to $98, but I strongly recommend against
-this unless you're already familiar with the feel of the various
-Cherry switches. Using wood for the case will reduce both the
-materials cost as well as the amount of time needed to cut the
-case. Replacing the colored acrylic with transparent might also save a
-few dollars.
+A new [[https://www.flickr.com/photos/technomancy/14654421878][experimental build]] uses the [[http://pjrc.com/store/teensy31.html][Teensy 3]] microcontroller and
+ARM [[https://github.com/technomancy/orestes/tree/teensy3][Forth-based]] firmware, but this is not yet suitable for general-purpose use.
** License
-Copyright © 2014 Phil Hagelberg
+Copyright © 2014 Phil Hagelberg and contributors
Released under the [[https://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html][GNU GPL version 3]]
projects / atreides.git / blobdiff