-\documentclass{article}
+\documentclass[landscape,twocolumn]{article}
\title{Atreus Keyboard Assembly}
\date{ }
+\usepackage{pdflscape}
\usepackage{graphicx}
-\usepackage{geometry}
+\usepackage[landscape,twocolumn]{geometry}
\usepackage{wrapfig}
-\newgeometry{margin=3cm}
+\newgeometry{margin=2cm}
\begin{document}
+\setlength{\columnsep}{1.4cm}
\setlength{\parindent}{0cm}
\maketitle
\section{Prerequisites}
-In order to assemble your keyboard, you'll need your kit plus a few
-other tools. The kit should contain these parts and a few spares:
+Before starting, make sure your kit has all its parts:
\begin{itemize}
-\item Case (top plate, switch plate, spacer, bottom plate)
-\item Sandpaper
-\item Finishing wax (mixture of beeswax and mineral oil)
-\item Diodes (42)
-\item Key switches (37 tactile or clicky, 5 red)
-\item A-Star Micro controller
+\item Case: top plate, switch plate, spacer pieces, bottom plate
+\item Sandpaper: 100-220 grit and 1000-2000 grit waterproof
+\item Key switches: 42 tactile or clicky, 5 red optional
\item Printed circuit board (PCB)
-\item Machine screws and nuts (8 each, 16mm M3 size)
-\item Key caps (40 normal, 2 long)
+\item A-Star Micro controller\footnote{The controller and diodes will be
+ attached to the PCB already in presoldered boards.}
+\item Diodes\textsuperscript{1}: 42
\item USB micro cable
+\item Key caps: 40 normal, 2 long
+\item Screws and nuts: 8 each, 16mm M3 size
\item Rubber feet
\end{itemize}
You'll also need to have these on hand:
\begin{itemize}
-\item Brush for applying finishing wax (a toothbrush will do)
-\item Soldering iron and solder (thin solder and an iron with a sharp tip)
-\item Wire cutters
-\item Rags or paper towels to lay the parts down on during construction
+\item Can of spray lacquer, shellac, or polyurethane (for wood cases)
+\item Newspaper or other material to spray on (for wood cases)
+\item Soldering iron and solder (lead-free not recommended)
+\item Wire cutters (not needed for presoldered kits)
+\item Eye protection for soldering
\end{itemize}
\vspace{1em}
The latest version of this document can always be found
-online.\footnote{http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf} If you're
-reading a black-and-white printed copy, you may find some of the
-photos clearer in color onscreen. This copy describes the
-circuit-board-based kit. If you are hand-wiring a board, see the older
-assembly
-guide.\footnote{http://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf}
-The photos in this guide depict Matias switches, (with rectangular
-switch stems) but you can use Cherry MX switches (with stems shaped
-like a +) as well. The assembly steps are the same in either case.
+online.\footnote{https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly.pdf} If you are
+hand-wiring a board without a PCB, see the older assembly
+guide.\footnote{https://atreus.technomancy.us/assembly-hand-wired.pdf}
+The photos in this guide depict Matias switches (with rectangular
+switch stems), but you can use Cherry MX switches (with stems shaped
+like a +) as well.
\section{Sanding}
-Start by sanding down both sides of each piece. You may want to
-hold two pieces together while sanding for strength or placing it on a
-flat surface you don't mind scruffing up; too much pressure on a
-single plate could damage it.
+Acrylic cases can skip down to the ``Diodes'' step below. Otherwise
+start by sanding with your rougher sandpaper. The top side of the top
+plate and the bottom side of the bottom plate are the only surfaces
+that are exposed to the touch once the keyboard is fully assembled, so
+these are the ones you'll need to sand.
\vspace{1em}
-\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
-\includegraphics[width=0.7\linewidth]{sanding.jpg}}
+\begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.7\columnwidth]{sanding.jpg}
+\end{center}
\vspace{1em}
-Keep in mind that the top side of the top plate and the bottom side of
-the bottom plate are the only surfaces that are exposed to the touch
-once the keyboard is fully assembled, so these will need the most
-attention when sanding. You can sand the other surfaces as well just
-to get the scorch marks off, but you don't need to worry about how
-smooth the inner surfaces feel to the touch. Be sure to get all the
+You may want to hold two pieces together while sanding for strength or
+placing it on a flat surface you don't mind scruffing up; too much
+pressure on a single plate could damage it. Be sure to get all the
wood dust off the pieces before you go on. A clean tack cloth or other
fine cloth works well.
-\section{Finishing}
-
-%% TODO: mention polyurethane
+\vspace{1em}
-You have two options when it comes to finishing. The easiest way is to
-proceed with the wax/oil mixture included in the kit. The other option
-is to apply several layers of lacquer and wet sand it down in
-between coats. This requires buying more supplies and takes significantly
-longer, but it results in a sturdier, shinier
-finish.\footnote{http://atreus.technomancy.us/lacquer.gif} The steps
-for the lacquered finish are described in a separate
-document,\footnote{http://atreus.technomancy.us/lacquer.pdf} and the
-rest of this section describes the quicker finishing method.
+Some people don't like the look of the exposed edges charred black
+from the laser cutter. You can choose to sand off the charring, or
+alternately cover it all with black ink from a sharpie marker for a
+more consistent look, or just leave it alone.
-\vspace{1em}
+\section{Wood Finishing}
-Some people don't like the look of the exposed edges charred from the
-laser cutter. You can choose to sand off the charring, or alternately
-cover it all with black ink from a sharpie for a more consistent look.
+Once the case is sanded down all over with coarse sandpaper, find a
+good place to spray the lacquer or polyurethane; either outdoors or in
+a well-ventilated garage. Lay down the newspaper with the pieces of
+the case on top of it. Spray your first coat of lacquer to the face-up
+side of each piece. As you spray to and fro, overlapping the path of
+the spray slightly will minimize running. The evenness of the spray
+matters less on the internal surfaces of the case, so that's a good
+place to practice and get the hang of it.
\vspace{1em}
-Open up the wax/oil mixture. Apply some to the brush and start
-spreading it over one side of each case piece. The color of the wood
-will darken as it absorbs the oil. Try to ensure it's spread
-evenly. Be more generous with the oil on the outer exposed
-surfaces. Once you've spread it with the brush, you can use your
-fingers to work the wax into the wood more deeply. If you need to
-reapply the finishing in the future, butcher block conditioner is
-readily available in stores and will do the job nicely.
+Check the lacquer directions to see how long your particular product
+needs to dry; this can vary from half an hour to many hours. Once your
+first coat is dry, flip each piece over and spray the other
+side. Repeat for a second coat. After the second coat, you can ignore
+all surfaces except for the top of the top plate and the bottom of the
+bottom plate since only these are exposed to the outside. At this
+point you can take in the switch plate and continue the rest of the
+keyboard construction in between applying the further coats.
-\vspace{1em}
-\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
-\includegraphics[width=0.7\linewidth]{oiled.jpg}}
\vspace{1em}
-As your brush goes over the edges of the laser-cut wood, it will get
-dirty from charred wood particles. After you've finished oiling one
-side of each piece, it's best to wash out the brush. Be sure it's
-fully dry before going on.
+The outer surfaces should have between five to eight coats applied
+total. As you get to the later coats, the end result will be smoother
+if you can keep them thinner. After your second-to-last coat dries,
+take your fine sandpaper and soak it in water, then sand over the top
+and bottom surfaces lightly. Add a final coat and buff it with a fine
+cloth. If you make any mistakes or are unhappy with the smoothness of
+the finish, let it dry and add another layer until you are satisfied.
-\section{Drying}
+\section{Diodes}
-Once one side of each piece is finished, you'll need to lay them out
-for a half hour or so to let them dry. (Longer if using lacquer.) Once
-one side is dry, repeat the process on the other side. After you've
-finished the construction you can come back and add another few coats
-to the outermost surfaces for a smoother texture. Once it's dried for
-a while, wipe the excess off. While you're waiting, you can start
-soldering the diodes and controller onto the circuit board, but don't
-solder any switches in before the switch plate is ready or you'll just
-need to remove them later.
+If you've got a presoldered board, you can skip ahead to the
+``Switches'' section.
-\section{Diodes}
+\vspace {1em}
If you've never soldered before, there are plenty of good
introductions online.\footnote{This one from Adafruit is great:
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/tools}
Coat the tip of the hot iron thinly with some solder before you
-start. The key is to use the iron to heat both parts of the joint for
-a second or two, then bring in a dab of the solder and let it melt and
-stick to the component and the circuit board pad.
+start. The key is to use the iron to heat both the hole and the lead
+sticking through it for a second or two, then bring in a dab of the
+solder. The solder should melt immediately if the joint is hot enough.
\vspace{1em}
Take five diodes at a time and bend them into a U shape. Place them
into the diode holes next to each switch slot on the unlabeled side of
the board. Each diode has a black band on it; the band should be
-pointing in the direction of the arrow on the printed side of the
-board. Once all five are in, pinch the legs of the diodes together to
-keep them from falling out, then flip the board over and solder them
-in place. Make sure they don't protrude off the board more than necessary.
+pointing in the direction of the arrow on the printed side of
+the board. Once all five are in, pinch the legs of the diodes together
+to keep them from falling out, then flip the board over and solder
+them in place. Make sure they don't protrude up more than necessary.
\vspace{1em}
-\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
- \includegraphics[width=0.7\linewidth]{diodes.jpg}}
+\includegraphics[width=\columnwidth]{diodes.jpg}
\vspace{1em}
-In the photo the diodes are inserted from the back of the circuit
-board, but it will work just as well to insert them from the front as
-long as the black band is oriented correctly. Once they're soldered,
-trim the diode legs with wire cutters. Grip the diode leg as you
-trim it to keep it from flying across the room. Keep the diode legs;
-they will be needed in the next step. Repeat until each diode position
-is filled.
+Once each set of diodes is soldered, trim the diode legs with wire
+cutters. Pinch the diode leg as you trim it to keep it from flying
+across the room or into an eye. \textbf{Keep the diode legs}; they will be
+needed in the next step. Repeat until each diode position is
+filled. Note that each row on the bottom needs six diodes instead of five.
\section{Controller}
First take the PCB with the labeled side down and fill the four corner
holes in the center ``A-STAR'' section with solder. Insert diode legs
into these holes while melting the solder. Then repeat the process for
-the other holes on the left, keeping them pointing as straight as possible.
+the other holes on the left, keeping them pointing as straight as
+possible. Leave the rest of the right side alone for now.
\vspace{1em}
-\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
- \includegraphics[width=0.8\linewidth]{many-pins.jpg}}
+\begin{center}\includegraphics[width=0.8\columnwidth]{many-pins.jpg}\end{center}
\vspace{1em}
-Fit the controller over the pins you've attached so far. Solder the
-four corner pins already connected to the PCB into the corners of the
-controller. (The bottom left corner is unused; the pin above is used
-instead.) Try to ensure the controller is as close to the PCB as
-possible and not at an angle. Then solder the other left-side diode
-legs into the controller as well. Trim them all with your wire
-cutters when they are secure.
+Fit the controller over the legs you've attached so far. You can trim
+the legs some if it helps get the controller on, but don't cut them to
+less than a quarter of the original length. Solder the four corner
+pins already connected to the PCB into the corners of the
+controller. (The bottom left corner pin of the controller is unused;
+the pin above it is used instead.) Try to ensure the controller is as
+close to the PCB as possible and not at an angle. Then solder the
+other left-side diode legs into the controller as well. Trim them all
+with your wire cutters when they are secure.
\vspace{1em}
holes. Flip the board over and solder the protruding diode legs to the
PCB, then trim them down and flip the board back over. Straighten the
diode legs, then solder and trim them. Repeat for the remaining
-unpopulated holes. From the PCB side, all the holes will be used, but
+right-side holes. From the PCB side, all the holes will be used, but
from the controller side, there will be some unused.
\vspace{1em}
-\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
- \includegraphics[width=0.8\linewidth]{bent-legs.jpg}}
+\begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.8\columnwidth]{bent-legs.jpg}
+\end{center}
\vspace{1em}
Before you go on, take the time to double-check the solder joints on
the controller. The solder should fill the hole completely without
-spilling over to adjacent holes, and the legs should be secure. Also
-check that all the diodes are facing the correct direction with the
-black band pointing to the bottom of the board.
+spilling over to adjacent holes. Also check that all the diodes are
+facing the correct direction with the black band pointing to the
+bottom of the board.
\section{Firmware}
\vspace{1em}
-\begin{wrapfigure}{r}{0.25\linewidth}
- \includegraphics[width=0.8\linewidth]{reset.jpg}
-\end{wrapfigure}
-
Plug in the USB micro cable into the controller, and plug the other
side into your computer. Get a copy of the
-firmware \footnote{Available at https://atreus.technomancy.us/tmk} and
-its dependencies, \texttt{avrdude} and \texttt{gcc-avr}, linked in the
-firmware readme. The first time you upload the firmware, you will have
-to use the hardware reset to enter the bootloader: take a diode leg or
-wire and touch one end to the reset pin and one end to the ground
-pin. (These are circled in the photo.) Touch them together twice in
-under a second and the LED underneath will begin pulsing in a
-different pattern from the original blinking. This indicates it has
-entered the bootloader for 8 seconds.
+firmware \texttt{.hex} file \footnote{Available at
+ https://atreus.technomancy.us/download} and \texttt{avrdude}. The
+first time you upload the firmware, you will have to use the hardware
+reset to enter the bootloader: take a diode leg or wire and touch one
+end to the reset pin and one end to the ground pin. (These are circled
+in the photo.) Touch them together twice in under a second and the
+LED underneath will begin pulsing in a smoother pattern from the
+original blinking. This indicates it has entered bootloader mode for 8
+seconds.
\vspace{1em}
-While in the bootloader, type \texttt{make upload KEYMAP=qwerty
- USB=[...]} from the firmware directory\footnote{See the firmware
- readme for instructions about determining the USB argument and
- customizing the layout.}. The firmware should be uploaded, and it
-will start functioning as a keyboard once switches are connected. Next
-time you upload, you can use the reset key instead of touching the
-pins together.
-
-\vspace{1em}
-
-If you only want to use the default layout and don't want to bother
-with installing everything, the firmware readme also describes simpler
-steps for installing a pre-compiled firmware.
+While it's in the bootloader mode, run \texttt{avrdude -p atmega32u4
+ -c avr109 -U flash:w:atreus.hex -P /path/to/usb} from the directory
+containing the firmware\footnote{See
+ https://atreus.technomancy.us/upload for how to determine the USB
+ argument and customizing the layout.}. The firmware should be
+uploaded, and it will start functioning as a keyboard once switches
+are connected. Next time you upload, you can use the reset key instead
+of touching the pins together.
\section{Switches}
Next take four switches and place each switch in a corner of the
-switch plate. (The case layer with all the holes in it.) The switches
-should be oriented so that the side with pins is to the ``north'' of
-the board so they will fit into the holes in the circuit board. Put
-the switch plate face-down on the table with the pins sticking
-up.
+switch plate. (That's the case layer with all the holes in it.) The
+switches should be oriented so that the side with pins is to the
+``north'' of the board so they will fit into the holes in the circuit
+board. Put the switch plate face-down on the table with the pins
+sticking up.
\vspace{1em}
prevent it from poking through the circuit board.
\vspace{1em}
-\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
- \includegraphics[width=0.7\linewidth]{some-switches.jpg}}
+\begin{center}
+ \includegraphics[width=0.9\columnwidth]{some-switches.jpg}
+\end{center}
\vspace{1em}
Next fill in the rest of the bottom row (SW1:3 through SW10:3) and the
leftmost column (SW0:1 and SW0:2). If your kit has red linear switches
which do not have any tactile bump, you can choose to use these for
-the modifier keys (shift, ctrl, alt, etc) or to leave the modifiers as
-normal tactile or clicky keys. Since modifier keys are held down, they
-do not benefit from tactility like normal keys do, so some people find
-they prefer linear keys there, but this is a matter of personal
-taste. The modifiers on the bottom row are SW2:3, SW3:3, and SW8:3.
-Place normal switches (usually grey or white) here if you want the
-modifiers to feel like the other keys, and red ones if not.
-
-\vspace{1em}
-
-Solder the left and right pins of each of the switches you've placed so
-far, and then plug it in to test them to ensure that each row and column is
-connected back up to the controller correctly. Once you've confirmed
-this, solder the rest of the switches, but leave the middle two
-sideways ones for last.
-
-\vspace{1em}
-\noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
- \includegraphics[width=0.8\linewidth]{center-switches.jpg}}
-\vspace{1em}
+the modifier keys (shift, ctrl, alt, etc) or to leave the modifiers
+using the same switches as the rest of the board.\footnote{Since
+ modifier keys are held down, they do not benefit from tactility like
+ normal keys do, so some people find they prefer linear keys there,
+ but this is a matter of personal taste.} The modifiers on the bottom
+row are SW2:3, SW3:3, and SW8:3 in the default layout.
\vspace{1em}
-%% The main (non-rotated) switches on Matias kits have their pins
-%% positioned a bit lower on the switch than Cherry pins; this shifts
-%% the whole PCB a bit further down from where it would be on Cherry kits.
-
-%% The holes for the rotated switches are oriented according to their
-%% position on Cherry boards because Cherry switches cannot have their
-%% pins twisted; they have a plastic post that helps mount it on the
-%% PCB, but moving the middle holes down into the Matias-friendly
-%% position would make it completely incompatible with Cherry, while
-%% leaving it in the Cherry-friendly position simply makes it slightly
-%% inconvenient for Matias kits.
-
-Connecting the center two rotated thumb keys (SW5:0 and SW6:0) in kits
-with Matias switches requires a little bit of tweaking. (Cherry
-switches do not need this step.) The holes for the pins are not
-aligned quite under where the pins protrude. A little twisting will
-allow them to go in nicely. Note that the two switches must be twisted
-in opposite directions since they are oriented facing away from each
-other. You can use pliers or even just your wire cutters to twist
-them.
+Solder the left and right pins of each of the switches you've placed
+so far, and then plug it in to a computer to test them to ensure that
+each row and column is connected back up to the controller
+correctly. Once you've confirmed this, solder the rest of the
+switches.
\section{Wrapping Up}
If there's a misbehaving switch, it's often caused by a cold
-joint. Reflow the solder on both contacts of the switch and the diode
-first; if that doesn't fix it, it may be the connection to the
-controller. You can follow the traces for the rows back to the middle,
-but the columns on the back of the board are obscured when the
-keyboard is assembled; you can see them in this PCB
-diagram\footnote{https://atreus.technomancy.us/pcb}.
-Re-melting the controller's solder joint for the affected row or
-column is usually enough to get it working, but in some cases you may
-need to reach under to get the joint that connects it to the PCB.
+joint. Reflow the solder on both contacts of the switch and the
+diode. If an entire row or column is affected, it's probably the
+connection to the controller. You can follow the traces for the rows
+back to the middle, but the columns on the back of the board are
+obscured when the keyboard is assembled; you can see them in this PCB
+diagram\footnote{https://atreus.technomancy.us/pcb}. Re-melting the
+controller's solder joint for the affected row or column is usually
+enough to get it working. If you still can't
+get it working, email me: \texttt{phil@hagelb.org}.
\vspace{1em}
-If there is room between the head of the USB cable and the place where
-the cable leaves the case, consider adding strain relief by wrapping
-the cable with electrical tape at the point just below where it leaves
-the case. This will make it so pulling on the cable does not dislodge
-it from the controller.
+You may want to add strain relief by wrapping the USB cable with
+electrical tape at the point just below where it leaves the case. This
+will make it so pulling on the cable does not dislodge it from the
+controller.
\vspace{1em}
take a fair bit of pressure to go on, so support the underside of the
board while pushing them on. Once the caps are on, they are very
difficult to remove again; don't try to pull them off without
-desoldering the switch first.
+desoldering\footnote{Desoldering a single switch can be done with just
+ an iron, but for doing more you may want a pump or wick. See
+ https://blog.adafruit.com/2015/11/25/collins-lab-desoldering/} the
+switch first.
\vspace{1em}
-All that's left is to do is close the case by placing the switch plate
-on top of the spacer and bottom plate, placing the top plate on it,
-and screwing it together with the nuts facing up. If the controller
-was not attached close enough to the circuit board, it may be
-necessary to sand down the USB connector in order to close the
-case. Before you place the rubber feet on the bottom plate near the
-corners, consider giving the outer case another coat or two of wax and
-allowing it to dry. If the rubber feet don't stay on with the provided
-adhesive, white glue may be needed to secure them.
+All that's left is to do is close the case by placing the spacer
+pieces and bottom plate on the keyboard while upside down, then
+putting some screws in. Flip it over and place the top plate on, then
+attach the nuts. If the controller was not attached close enough to
+the circuit board, it may be necessary to sand down the USB connector
+to reduce its height in order to close the case. If the rubber feet
+don't stay on with the provided adhesive, white glue may be needed to
+secure them. If you have some wood finishing oil or beeswax, you can
+apply it with your fingers after the feet go on for a shinier surface.
\vspace{1em}
-Congratulations. Enjoy your new keyboard. It will take a
+Congratulations! Enjoy your new keyboard. It will take a
considerable adjustment period to get used to it, but it should result
in much more comfortable and effective typing. Also remember that
you're encouraged to customize the layout to make it truly your
own. Happy typing!
-%% \noindent\makebox[\textwidth]{%
-%% \includegraphics[width=\linewidth]{finished.jpg}}
-
\end{document}
projects / atreides.git / blobdiff